It's amazing how very different people are. I had two very opposite interactions with two very opposite Portuguese senior men this morning. The first one was having coffee and staring at me as I walked past. So I smiled as I naturally do and said Bom Dia. He continued to stare with a miserable expression. Relentless in my will to spread joy, I nodded my head very dramatically without breaking the stare back and said Bom Dia really clearly, louder and slower. I think he may have caved and given me back a partial nod. I continued walking, giggling to myself and found a bus stop. I was reading the schedule trying to determine what time to expect the bus and a very nice man started telling me which bus to take and what time it was coming and how long it would take and then he wished me a bom viagem and off he went. He was helpful on his own accord and just a kind old soul. The bus was scheduled to depart my stop in 10 minutes so I waited. Although Bom Jesus is only 5kms away, it is at the top of a mountain so easy decision. This church was very important on my must see list. It has a choice of hundreds of stairs or a funicular. It is said that if you climb all the stairs on your knees you will be forgiven for all of your sins. If I climbed on my knees, I'd never walk again hahaha.
I was waiting for the bus and a lady came into the shelter with me and I asked her in Portuguese how much it cost to go by bus and she told me 1.50€
She was of course curious about me as I do look very much like the pilgrim that I am. She asked if I was going to Santiago and I said no but I had just been there. Our conversation continued and she asked about my pilgrimage, my route, my time, my distance and my current plan. Keep in mind this was in Portuguese as she spoke not a word of English. We talked about her family, my family and as two strangers we quickly became two friends. I asked her about my route to Guimaraes and she told me it is over 30kms because of the mountains. She wrote on a paper, where to take the bus and connect with another. She even drew me a map. The bus was supposed to come in 10 minutes but already at least 30 minutes had passed. Apparently I don't have the best luck with buses.
So she gets on the phone and calls her husband to come pick her up. She tells me her plan and offers to take me instead of waiting for the bus. Although it took a couple attempts to understand, honestly, I didn't hesitate to say yes. She had been kind from the beginning and my gut felt nothing but good, loving energy. Just after we agreed, the bus pulled up and the doors opened in front of me. She pulled out the phone again and grilled her husband asking what's taking him so long and with that he pulled up behind the bus and I had a quick decision to make. I stuck with my decision and went with my new friend. Her husband was equally kind and they even took me on the scenic high route so that I could see the Sanctuary as well.
They were very proud of their city and rightfully so. As the car climbed and turned I was getting the personal tour and they were pointing out churches and other sights.
We arrived at the Sanctuary and Alice came with me and showed me around while her husband Joseppe waited in the car. We entered the Sanctuary and being Dia a Mae, Mothers Day, in Portugal everyone was praying to Senhora Nossa Maria.
We took pictures of the view and I took a selfie with Alice.
We then got back in their car and drove to Bom Jesus but the road was closed.
There was a cycling tournament or race of some kind so we had to go a different way. Originally Alice was going to go with me but instead she invited me to eat at her house. At this point it was hard to say no to anything. They were treating me like family.
They dropped me off at the bottom of the hundreds of stairs knowing I wanted to climb and I even left my backpack in their trunk. The plan was to meet me at the bottom of the funicular at 1300. Keep in mind, still not a word of english has been spoken and I am relying on my sketchy portuguese to understand these new very important instructions. I also don't have phone service because my 30 day European access has expired. Still I was confident I understood. We parted ways and I started the climb up.
It was cloudy but I could still see Braga in the distance. At the top was a garden of eden, a Cathedral and 2 Paradors.
There were artists, photographers, locals and tourists. I first entered the Cathedral and walked in on a mass. I stayed a while and enjoyed the choir. I snuck back out to walk in the garden since I was limited with time.
I was moving freely without my giant backpack and was no longer being stared at by judging eyes. I just blended in. I treated myself to an ice cream and watched as a wedding party slowly gathered around the Cathedral.
I had some fun with my camera lens photographing some of the wedding guests and surroundings.
I didn't want to be late to meet up with my new friends so I took the Funicular to the bottom for 1.5€
I waited at the bottom since I was little early but at 1300 my chauffeur arrived. This time Joseppe brought their 31yr old daughter Carolina and left Alice at home to cook. Carolina was shy at first but slowly warmed up. The ride to their home was all of 2 mins.
Their home was beautiful. A garden full of flowers and impeccably landscaped. I entered into the kitchen and was smacked in the face with the most amazing smelling portuguese cooking.
I was given a place to sit and a glass of water and we chatted while Alice cooked. Joseppe and Carolina went to take food to an elderly man, maybe his father, I'm not sure. While they were gone and Alice was busy in the kitchen, I explored the garden and enjoyed the brief moments of sun and the pretty flowers.
Alice made the most traditional regional dish of Minho called Pica do chão. I hope I spelled that right haha. It was chicken (frango) with rice cooked in Sango de frango. (Blood of the chicken).
We relocated to a dining room and had a soft cheese with red wine from Douro to start, then the Pica do Chão. It was simply amazing. Best tasting meal I've had in 31 days. Then for dessert we had another cheese with marmalade and opened a bottle of Alvarinho, white and bubbly and fresh.
For my 2nd dessert, a glass of Port Wine... sweet and very smooth.
It was so lovely and I repeatedly tried my best to express my most heartfelt gratitude for today. It was a Camino moment for sure and the only two words needed to describe to you my interpretation of the day...
Divine Intervention. On Mother's day no less.
Before leaving, I was given a tour of their home and their beautiful backyard with a view of Bom Jesus on top of the mountain.
We went back inside and FaceTimed my Mom. She and Alice had a full conversation in Portuguese.
After all that this lovely family did for me today they also insisted on doing more. They drove me to the next town on my list, Guimaraes. It was a 10-15 min drive on a highway and the rolling green hills and mountains for sure would have either destroyed me or I would have been lost for days without phone service. Not smart at all.
It still blows my mind how two strangers met at a bus stop, spent the day together, shared a meal and became so comfortably friends. Two strangers who connected and chose to trust one another. Friendship born from a simple act of kindness.
When we said our goodbyes and I gave my final thanks to this wonderful couple, I hugged each of them and was hugged back. Two years of Covid, no shaking hands, no hugging, no dinners and drinks with friends and isolating ourselves from others .
And here, on a busy street in a foreign city, I was shown such a beautiful act of kindness and humanity. My heart is so full.
My belly was also very full and I needed a nap haha.
Instead I walked it off exploring the historic town of Guimaraes.
The castle I wanted to see, and also previously a home to a Portuguese president, was closed. It's open everyday of the year except for 4 days. Today is one of those!!
But that's OK, I took some pictures of the exterior and roamed around town. It was scenic and busy but with so much charm.
Beautiful shops with floral decor to draw me to them and plenty of Restaurants, Cafés and sweet shops.
After I had my fill of touring, I headed back to my place but was distracted by music. I was drawn to it and took a small detour. It led me to a small courtyard where locals had formed a circle of men playing the accordion. The women were singing and the elderly were dancing.
There were no obvious sign of joy like smiles or laughter but the energy was joyous and clearly everyone was celebrating Mother's Day.
I'm already looking forward to celebrating with my own family.
I'm in for the night, skipping dinner on account of my giant lunch. I have wine in my room and hope that I can sleep through the sounds of the city streets and with paper thin walls, I sure hope my new neighbours are super tired when they get back.
I already know way too much about them! ha!
I forced a cough just so they know how loud they are and that I am here.
I may have to sleep with music or TV tonight.
Tomorrow, I'm walking and bussing to Amarante since it is over 30kms and I'm hoping for sunshine!
Happy Portuguese Mother's Day!!
Boa Noite x
