Day 30 On the Road Again

Funny how I've only just left Santiago, my feet are in need of weeks to heal and yet I'm sitting on a bus to Braga wondering which Camino to do next. 

I rode the bus for an hour with my bladder suffering and disappointed in myself for not using the facilities at the bus station. I did go there but almost died from the stench and decided to hold it. That was mistake number one.

I realized after an hour that the bus has a micro sized toilet on board. I saw a man get up to use it and turn back so I foolishly assumed it was out of order. That was mistake number two. Trying to accept I would have a couple more hours of suffering, I then noticed a while later, a woman coming out. So trying to disguise my joy, I calmly went to the micro door and saw that it requires 1€ to use. I reached in my pocket and had just that. I really do have angels with me. 

So here is where it gets funny. I went in (first time in a bus bathroom) and I closed the door and locked it. That was mistake number three. The light didn't come on as I expected it to. Silly me, left my phone on my seat so no flashlight. That was mistake number four. I went to open the door again to let in the light but it wouldn't open. It was pitch black and I couldn't see anything. Immediately I had a minor panic attack thinking, this is how I go. Dying of embaressment, locked in a dark, bus toilet closet. I took a moment to think and started feeling around the walls. I felt something dangling above my head and thought 'what if it's a panic button with a pull cord and the bus screeches to a halt because of me'. So I kept feeling the walls and eventually felt a wall switch and pushed it. A light came on and I felt immediately relieved. Then I saw, next to the light switch, a push button alarm that says STOP. I'm telling you.... Angels. Can you imagine if I pressed the wrong one? hahaha. I sat back down at my seat, nobody knowing the panic I just endured and within minutes my bus pulled over on the side of the highway.  Our driver has not said why, he has not made any announcements and the A/C  is now off. My water bottle is in the baggage holder with my backpack as are my snacks.

It's getting warm and the relentless tick tock of our hazard lights are driving me bonkers. I hope none of these people have a flight to catch.

For me, only laundry awaits me. I did get to a point however that I was considering putting on my pack and just walking away from the bus. If we weren't on the side of a highway, I would have for sure

The moral of the story is keep your phone with you at all times, always pee first before anything and take the train!! Haha.

Time lapse : 2 hours later.

We sat on the bus for 30 mins without air so there was a mutiny and a rebellion and we all left the bus to breathe. 

I sat in a shady spot and was told I could not have my luggage until the new bus came. Most everyone was up in arms without water or snacks so the bus driver caved and it was a free for all.

Fortunately for me, I had some wine leftover from my Santiago celebration so I drank it roadside listening to everyone grumbling in another language. It was like watching a foreign soap opera without subtitles.

I apologize... I had several pages more written after that last sentence but started falling asleep with my thumb on the backspace button. Hahaha. I am not rewriting any of it.

To conclude my story, 2 buses showed up to rescue us eventually and I made it to the beautiful town of Braga. 

It's amazing. I walked to the Historic part of town and have been to every Church and Cathedral. 

I've done my laundry, picked up groceries and made my own dinner.  My new neighbours even got a free concert while I was cooking and singing with my balcony door open.

I'm exhausted and hoping for a good sleep so I can walk some more tomorrow. I'm going to aim for 20kms. 

That plan might change by morning.. we'll see!!

Good night my friends x

Day 29 ~ The Way to Santiago

They say here in Spain that all roads lead to Santiago. My path today was mostly through vibrant green forested trails and a few little sleepy hamlets. 

The birds sang to me the entire way. I woke up earlier than usual. Perhaps the excitement of reaching the Cathedral. Perhaps it was knowing the road would be long and the trail would slowly climb for most of it. 

I left my place and finally had the pleasure of walking at dawn and watching the sun rise.

 What started as a chilly morning, as always,  it became a scorcher of a day, peaking at 29°.It was an easy exit from Padron and though the trail was initially crowded, today the pilgrims started the day quietly and at peace.

 Most dropped off the trail quickly to get their coffees and breakfast. I shot my coffee down like tequila and hit the trail at a good speed.

 It's great to start pain free and full of caffeine. I had a bounce in my step and a smile on my face. 

I had almost immediately found the sweet spot and for the first 3 hours I couldn't see or hear a pilgrim in front of me or behind me. It was blissful. The sweet spot is the gap in the masses and is very rare within 100kms of Santiago. After 2 or 3 kms of walking, I saw Bruno stepping out of his hotel and as I walked quickly passed him laughing, he had the deer in the headlights look. Clearly he wasn't expecting to see me this early with my Eugene jets on. I didn't even stop. I told him in passing that I found my mojo and was unstoppable ha!

I couldn't change pace and risk losing the sweetspot.

By mid morning, I slowed to take another picture and I saw Bruno walking at me like a competitive speedwalker. He didn't stop either, he said in passing, "you don't want to see what's coming, better keep moving"and with that he sped off.  I laughed a little and kept taking my pictures and then around the corner coming from behind me, was a herd of pilgrims.

 It reminded me of a scene from the Walking Dead when a herd of zombies close in on a town and the road they walk on disappears under the feet of the crowd. I'm sure the pilgrims approaching were lovely and happy and feeling very much alive but I still put my jets back on. 

I stopped for more jet fuel and had the pleasure of seeing Sean and shortly after Liz and Eugene. Liz had sent me the most beautiful message in the morning and her kind words were perhaps why I walked with smile. 

After having coffee, the road was a constant but gentle incline with only a few steep parts, nothing these broken feet couldn't manage. It was a long walk but being stubborn and eager to arrive, I pushed on. I stopped to take a rock out of my shoe beside a small farm with little lambs playing and chasing their Mums as kids do. I would love to have a hobby farm someday. 

I didn't stop again until I was within 8kms of Santiago. I found a small church, with my Grandmother's name. I took that as a sign to rest and have a moment.

My feet are quite honestly feeling destroyed and the remaining 8kms were beyond painful. 

I had a pre arrival glass of wine with my American pilgrim friend Greg who I have shared many walks and talks. My closest Camino family member and therefore the chosen pilgrim to celebrate with on arrival. We bought a bottle of wine 2kms from the square and walked the final steps together to the Cathedral. 

We both found our different trail friends and hugs were shared and photos taken. 

Shortly after, a shady spot with my name on it called to me. 

Sheltered from the heat, leaning against the old bricks with the Cathedral before us, Greg and I easily polished off a delightful bottle of Rioja.

 Greg kindly guarded my belongings and I hobbled with Jacinta to the Pilgrim office to collect my Compostela. 

This time I chose to officiate my journey with my maiden name and to honour my father who walks beside me every day.

Every bird that sings to me is him. Every beam of sunlight that finds me through the trees, is him. Every feather I find at my feet has fallen from an angel's wings, and those wings are his. Everything in life is a choice. How we see the world and how we live our lives. There are signs and symbols everywhere and how we interpret them is also a choice.

Life is a journey. Life is a Camino. In my life today, I am feeling awake and aware and in the moment. I have learned to be true to myself, to see things as they are, not as I wish them to be. I've learned to take something positive from every interaction and every hardship. I have learned that there is no end to learning.

I am eternally grateful for the lessons, for the enlightenment and for the opportunity to share such a profound experience with some truly remarkable people.

Walking the streets of Santiago, for me, brought back many memories from 2018 and 2021. I remembered those that walked with me then and recalled moments of laughter and love. There is a magic about this town that is undeniable. 

Greg and I met up for Chuleton and wine and finally Santiago cake. We had an indoor table at an open window in one of the main squares decorated with pink tulips, flowering trees, and a fountain steps from the Cathedral.

 It was a lovely evening with great food, wine of course  and great friendship.

It was an early night for me. Time to reflect. Time to heal. Time to rest. 

As I walked under the arches and to my lovely little place, I was serenaded by an opera singer, this time it was the deep, powerful bass of a male voice that sang to me in the streets of Santiago.

Today is a day off in Braga and back to Portugal. I have laundry to tend to and some historical sights to explore.

There are still a few kms to tackle before I kiss these boots goodbye. 

To my friends and family, I love you and Thank you for your support, your love and your words of encouragement.

To my new pilgrim friends,

I wish for you all a beautiful journey as it does not end in Santiago. I hope all that you seek in the way of peace, love and light finds you. You will not be forgotten and I thank you for your friendship and smiles on my own journey.

Bom Caminho! xx

Easy like Sunday Morning

Day 28, 

The walk today into Padron was supposed to be a short one.  Bruno and I decided to meet outside my place after breakfast and walk together. 

It's very, very busy on the trail and difficult to find quiet time so we figured we'd take it slow and just stroll and chat and try to make our Camino last a little longer.

It was a beautiful sunny day and the trail meandered like a stream. We walked up and down hills, around corners, through little towns, across farm fields and it was a very peaceful day despite the heavy foot traffic.

We stopped for wine around lunchtime at a very busy outdoor garden patio. It had a lovely view of the countryside and the placement was perfect. While we sat enjoying our drinks, a crafty little elderly man came around selling necklaces that he made. We bought one and I took a pic with the charming old fella. 

We packed some food earlier in the day and had an afternoon picnic on a shady bench further down the trail. 

The day was easy as was the conversation and it really felt like the perfect way to spend the last full day before Santiago.

Tomorrow is closer to 26kms and more effort will be needed to get there at a reasonable time. Bruno is staying a little closer to town and has less distance to cover so we will likely meet along the trail and arrive at the Cathedral together. 

We walked 22kms in the sun and the fresh air has me feeling knackered. Oh wait, maybe that's the wine heehee 

We went straight to the Cathedral here in town upon arrival for a stamp so we can get our certificate in Santiago.

I was asked my nationality by the clerk that is tracking it...turns out I am the only Canadian.

I better get out there, to the town square and represent.

As soon as I hit the square I heard my name. It was Liz and Eugene from London. I joined them for a glass of wine and more Camino talk. They have made alot of friends and have quite a large group gathering for dinner. I have been invited but my soul needs a little quiet time. That's what I tell myself when the idea of new people scares me. Time to reflect and time to look back on the day.

I'm on my 3rd glass of wine and should consider a meal at some point. 

That time is now.

Just as I was paying my bill, Liz and Eugene appeared and brought me to dinner with all their Camino friends.

I sat next to a Portuguese fella named Hugo and we laughed alot over my knowledge of every bad word in Portuguese. 

These are great people that I am so happy to know and I hope that I keep in contact with them. Eugene and I discovered we share the same level of awkwardness with large groups and laughed endlessly of a tattoo prank and Eugene, if you read this, I thank you for that, pure genius!

Hugo told us of his dream of running naked with cows to Santiago and truly, I could not have enjoyed my evening more. It was a smashing good time and Sean, if you see this, thank you for the Camino hugs. More important than you understand at this time. Liz, thank you for welcoming me into your Camino family, you have such positive energy around you. Camino life brings nations together one pilgrim at a time. You have embraced the Camino spirit and I wish for you peace and love on your next Camino.

You will find the one that is right for you. 

What a great way to conclude a fabulous day, with a fabulous night. I am so excited to reach Santiago and then return to Portugal. 

Most excited really, just to go home, to sloppy dog kisses and hugs from the people I love most.

Buenos Noches x

Day 27 Rivers and Roads

Today really surprised me. I slept in. Sort of. Well I actually woke up at 6 AM but didn't leave until 1030. I  was lounging.

After digging deep for motivation, I gathered up my belongings and bid farewell to my castle. 

I found coffee on my way out and once again became a pilgrim. Today has been one of the nicer days actually despite the threats of rain. I didn't see very many pilgrims and I had this beautiful, natural trail following the creek all to myself.

 No clicking of poles, no pilgrim chatter, no cars, no dogs just the birds and the sound of the babbling brook.  I also took an advil so my feet are feeling OK.

I'm in an exceptionally good mood today. Perhaps it's because I allowed myself a little luxury last night. Perhaps it's reuniting with one of my first pilgrim friends. Perhaps it's allowing myself the freedom to do what I want, when I want, leave as late as I want, walk as slow as I want, it's liberating. Perhaps it's because I've only started my walk and I haven't climbed the mountain yet ha!

I did however forget to find a store and stock up on supplies and I have limited stock.

I have one apple, a package of dry toast, a couple granola bars and a bag of nuts . More than enough just not an exciting menu today. What I would really like now though is jet fuel. 

I used the hotel products this morning and now I'm not sure if I smell good or if I just smell like a clean old European lady. I'm not big on perfume so feeling too fragrant is awkward for me. Especially as a pilgrim. It's evidence that I stayed in a castle last night haha. On the flipside, nobody wants me to smell like I've been walking for 27 days. 

I made it to the top of the mountain and I had a cafe con leche, a fresh squeezed orange juice and a piece of tortilla. Unfortunately I left the café at the same time as all the other people that have been sitting there for a while. I walked so fast from there to put space between myself and a group of loud pilgrims. Then I had to stop and take a rock out of my boot and that allowed them all to catch up again. As embarrassing as this is to admit, the loudest, most obnoxious people on this Camino aren't Americans but in fact are the Portuguese!!

Little do they know I understand Portuguese and all the foul language. They likely wouldn't care if they knew. I waited and let them all pass me. I'd rather see the backs of them than be listening to their mouths go off. 

I met 4 lovely British ladies Hazel, Stella, Yolanta and Sharon and spent some time walking with them but otherwise walked quietly alone.

I have also been walking near a family of 4. It started earlier this morning when I saw the dad wearing his backpack completely wrong. He was using a school backpack and the straps were so loose, his bag was pulling on his shoulders and constantly bouncing and hitting his backside. I didn't want to offend him or offer unwanted advice so I asked him if his backpack was comfortable the way that he was wearing it and he said no.  I then asked if I could offer some advice about his backpack? And he said "yes ... buy a better one?" I laughed at his joke and I said "let me help you fix your straps". He probably couldn't understand me but I explained to him that the weight of the backpack should be in the center of his back so I lifted up his backpack and I tightened all his straps and I told him that it would take the pressure off his shoulders.  I was unaware that it was his wife and two kids standing there watching with puzzled faces. I was wondering why these people were just standing there and staring at us. He thanked me and said he was much more comfortable and then when I saw him later in the day and I asked him how he was feeling and he said he was much better and thank you. 

I started slowing down and taking too many pictures so the family passed me repeatedly. The next time I saw them, the young daughter was whining and complaining. She's probably about 10 years old. They don't speak any English but they sound perhaps Eastern European. Apparently the daughter was carrying an apple core and I don't know if she was whining because she wanted someone else to carry it because there were no trash cans or if there was more to the story. The mother was shooting daggers out of her eyeballs at the daughter, the son, who was about 14, was laughing and the dad was trying not to laugh and also console his daughter and he didn't really pay attention to the angry mom. 

I felt compassion for the mom because I've been there when you just want peace and enjoyment and you end up having to discipline or get a handle on a situation publicly. It seemed to resolve itself by the mom storming off ahead and the dad walking with the two kids. I would see them again several times throughout the day. Recently I saw the mom walking with the son and the other two were nowhere in sight . 

I heard footsteps behind me and turned to see the daughter behind me and I could hear her crying. I looked over at her and I asked "are you OK?" I said "where are you from?" she said "Romania"  I asked "do you speak English?" She said no but seemed to partially understand me. I said "where is your father?" And she just looked at me helplessly with crying eyes . I said,  "don't worry, your mother and your brother are just up ahead" and I pointed with my Gandalf staff . I told her if she was scared or couldnt find them, I would walk with her and help her find them. I also told her she was very strong and brave to hike the Camino. She found hope again, smiled, said thank you, wiped her tears and ran ahead . She did find them, they were reunited and I saw the mother hugging her and holding her hand.  I guess they've had a long, challenging day. 

I just ran into the family again and the mother stopped me and in very broken English,  thanked me for helping her daughter. She told me that the daughter said that I was God. 

I looked sort of puzzled and and thought maybe it was just the language barrier but she repeated it. I think she meant like a guardian angel or heavensent and it was lost in her limited vocabulary. Regardless the entire interaction had a very profound affect on me.

I made my way in to town and there is Bruno drinking a beer with a royal chalice full of red wine with my name on it.

Now that is the kind of welcome every town should have!

Later in the afternoon, having another wine and talking away with Bruno, the Romanian mother walked in, saw me, and said "Hello God" and smiled. I laughed and greeted her again and explained to Bruno that I was upgraded from Queen status!

We bought supplies at the grocery store before dinner for our pilgrim picnic on the trail tomorrow and I'm going to try to turn my water into wine hahaha!

Buenos Noches x

Day 26 Queen of the Castle

Once again I woke up to cloud cover but that's OK,  today is still gonna be a great day. I have a routine that works for me, waking up at 6, out the door by 8. Coffee on the way... a few times.

I walked the quiet cobblestone streets on my way out of Redondela but it was short lived.  I found a tiny little fruit market open and I ducked in there and bought some apples and oranges and let the herd of loud pilgrims pass me. I walked another 50' and found a coffee shop full of more pilgrims but that's OK.

I needed coffee and apparently they all did too. I drank it quickly and I put my rain gear on as it started to sprinkle . My Camino has evolved from a glorious peaceful walk in solitude to an overwhelming onslaught of tourists and pilgrims . I've gone from seeing a handful of pilgrims in a day to what must be at least a couple hundred people heading the same way with their backpacks and their poles . I left early thinking I could avoid the rush but here I am in the middle of it.  At my first opportunity I'll find a place to put my feet up for a while and let them all pass me by. I learned that from Sarria to Santiago. Don't try to beat the rush. Because you won't. Let them all go ahead and just hang back and have the trail to yourself. The problem with following the masses is you tend to follow the backpacks ahead of you instead of actually looking for the signs. There's nothing more embarrassing than 75 people going the wrong way and even worse being one of the people that followed them. 

I've managed to stop and take a couple pictures and put enough time between the people in front and the people behind me. Once again I can hear the morning birds singing and the very quiet hush of distant traffic, a few odd dogs barking but I don't hear the marching of hundreds of pilgrims anymore . 

It took about 2 hours to adjust to the increase in population on the trail. There was simply no way to fight it so I accepted it and made the best of it. 

I met 3 pilgrims from London, Sean and his married friends Liz and Eugene (originally from Malaysia) that were lovely to talk with. We passed eachother a few times. I hope to see them again.

It was a rainy walk for the most part which made it hard to take many pictures. Climbed 2 giant hills and walked through mostly forests. There was a small town somewhere in the middle where I took shelter from the hard rain for awhile in a lavanderia until a group of 50 tried to squeeze under there with me. 

I carried on and ended up following a local  couple arguing in spanish. I thought it was a father, mad at his daughter, but when the 4 foot tall woman turned back to look at me, I could see she was elderly. Could have been his Mom. She was really mad with him and her tiny legs were stomping angrily away from him. 

After passing the days entertainment, I came to an old Roman bridge and it was beautiful. 

The old rocks had a sheen from the rain and a perfect spot on the other side provided shelter and a much needed 2nd coffee.

The jet fuel propelled me up a steep climb through the village where I met a lovely local older woman. She was on her way with her pimento plants to tend to her garden.

We walked and talked in Spanish and with a few portuguese words used as substitutes for my limited vocabulary...I thanked her for spending her time with me and we parted ways, both smiling.

The forest, even with all the pilgrims, was calming and my feet were surviving. But when I was approaching the city and the 6kms of pavement, my feet were quickly giving up. 

The inner city trail was typical but didn't cause the anxiety of Vigo. It was well marked with arrows and a fairly direct route to my castle.

I splurged on a Parador and I am Queen for the night. 

I found it easily and was greeted well. The lobby was beautiful and the bar, very chic. 

The carpeted walk through the halls to my quarters felt like heaven for my feet.

My room is antique looking and has a fantastic view.

I also have a tub to soak my royal aching bones.

I had seen a few sights on my way in to town but will likely see more in the morning. 

I'm considering a day off.... skipping a day of walking just to have a day without pain.

Everyday starts pain-free but at the 15k mark I am really struggling... this is not normal for me. 26k is my normal pain marker...and I'm far from that on this trip.

I went for a wander and bumped into my favourite pilgrim, Bruno. 

We shared more laughs over wine and cerveza and made plans to meet up for dinner later when they serve food. It's very difficult to wait until 8pm to eat but it's also very difficult to have a big meal at lunch and then try to hike it off.

While we sat there telling stories and laughing, I saw an older woman walking towards us down a wet, slippery cobblestone lane. She slipped, falling backwards and I saw her right lower leg bend awkwardly at the knee, underneath her. I bolted out of my chair and ran to her. She had no idea how well I could relate to her immediate feeling of shock. I think it took her a moment to wrap her head around what just occurred. I put my hand under the back of her head as a pillow and right with me was Bruno and a half dozen Spanish speaking people. The communication was left to them. I just held her head... nothing else I could do. She then insisted she was fine, as I did when I fell, despite not being fine. Her ankle was already swelling but like a trooper she got to her feet with help, thanked everybody and walked on.

I too left the scene and went back to my castle to transform from a pilgrim to a princess....but just for one night. 

The stylish hotel bar provided a perfect place to meet for a pre dinner drink before walking to a modern, fancy, schmancy restaurant. The fantastic company compensated for the poor service of the super friendly waiter. He meant well and we enjoyed ourselves despite the challenges. It was a lovely evening but "we still don't talk about Bruno" 

Buenos Noches x