Day 33 The Reunion

Waking up at 0500 has its benefits. I woke up to the song of birds and the beauty of a sunrise over a historic Roman Bridge. 

Amarante is the city of love they say.... and yes, I fell in love with it. Or maybe I just fell back in love with life. 

It will be a 5hr long express ride back to Lisbon and I don't see any facilities on board. I hope they make stops for weak bladders haha. A 5 hour nap would be nice, unlikely though, I just had 2 coffees. Not the greatest decision. 

24hr time lapse... 

Well I survived the 5hr bus ride and the 1 hour train ride. It was hard for my legs to not be in motion but my feet were grateful for another day off. 

Upon arrival in Setubal, my cousin was there at the train station to pick me up but I didn't see her so I did what came naturally and started walking. After a few minutes I thought I should call her and just make sure she knows I arrived safely. Turns out she was at the station trying to figure out how she could have missed me. I stayed put and within 2 minutes she pulled up in her car and gave me a big giant hug. I'm not sure why I thought she would be taller than me, perhaps because I was a kid last time I saw her, but she was cute and little and her English was still great after all these years.

We stopped at the store before going to her place and grabbed some wine.

 I was welcomed to her home by 2 excited, happy barking, small dogs and a handful of cats and had the pleasure of meeting my youngest cousin, her son,  João. Tall and handsome and smiling. Then the Beast rose from the depths of the earth hahaha. My Beast.  My son, sleepy faced, dazed and confused, came out of his room and I hugged him finally after more than 3 weeks. 

I went to sit in the kitchen and already Fatima was at the stove whipping something together. Within minutes she had a plate in front of me with fast fry steaks, portuguese cabbage and chorizo and chips and Vinho Tinto. It was delicious. She doesn't mess around. Dominick and João were also served lunch with a smile.  Now I know why Dominick wants to bring her home and keep her in our kitchen haha. After lunch, Fatima, Dom and I went for a short walk around the corner for coffee and had a great talk in the sun. Who knew Fatima was so wise and kind and caring. She took such good care of Dominick and I haven't seen him look so calm and at peace for a very long time.

I helped Dom pack up his things and Fatima drove us to our hotel close by to check in and came back again later to pick us up.

 She took us on a sunset tour of the Setubal shore and then we went out for dinner.

 I have very much enjoyed my time reconnecting with Fatima and hope that she will send her boys to Canada in the summer for a visit. It would also be wonderful if they all came to visit and stay with us at Christmas. Her three big boys have yet to see snow!

We had a short but very sweet visit and soon we will be saying our goodbyes. Fatima is picking us up shortly from the hotel and taking us back to the train station. From there we are heading east to Evora for our final couple of days.

I'm not sure I will ever be able to properly thank Fatima for helping Dominick the way she has. The whole chain of events on this journey further validates my theory that the universe unfolds as its meant to and everything indeed happens for a reason. 

Xx

Day 32 The Vagabond

Another morning at a bus station has me feeling a bit like a vagabond. I'm actually proud of myself today. I survived 2 days without cell service and it forced me to be more of my resourceful self and rely more on human interaction than my cellphone which has become for me, a lifeline.

My bed had zero support last night for my already aching back so I'm starting the day a little tired and sore. The bus I am waiting for will take me to my next old town on the river, Amarante. I'm looking forward to a relaxing day and hope the sun keeps shining.

I found the bus station easily, making my way through the cobblestone alleys of Guimaraes. 

Beside the station was a shopping mall and inside it both Vodafone and Meo. I opted for Meo this time and bought 5GB for 10€.

I am officially connected.

The bus has arrived and I'm at the back next to a sleeping individual who has been coughing for 20 mins now. She is wearing a mask, we all are but I feel very uneasy sitting next to her. I don't usually get motion sickness but it's very warm on this bus, no circulation, I'm wearing my mask and my coffee is churning in my belly. Can't wait to get off this bus.

Time lapse: 7 hours later... 

Upon arrival I was happy to see eye candy everywhere. I had a nice lunch and wine on a patio and then roamed the streets to see churches and monuments.

This is by far one of my favourite moments on this adventure...

 I am sitting on my balcony during the golden hour listening to Fado music, drinking way too much wine. I have a blanket on my knees and the sun is shining on my face to warm me. My belly is full of the dinner I made in my little kitchen and I ate it on this sunny verandah. The music at first drowned out the nearby construction but now it has just established a mood I'm not quite willing to part with. Although the  construction has stopped, the music continues as my Portuguese mojo is in full force. I wish I had more wine but if I leave this spot surely the moment is lost. I can see the market from here but there are about 100 drunk steps from here to there and I'm safer staying here haha.

Honestly I don't remember the last time my soul was so at peace. 

I went to church today, again, as I've done every day for 32 days and gave thanks for the so many blessings in my life. I feel so very grateful for legs that have carried me on this journey to inspire and be inspired, to love and be loved. I am grateful for my loving, supportive family and friends both new and old. I am grateful for the many laughs and the wonderful people I have met along the way. 

Today I walked along the Rio Tamega below the Cathedral and the stone walls of this small city.  There I met a fisherman and I began a conversation. People need to know that they matter, that they aren't invisible and without disturbing his time by the water, I showed interest in his hobby. This picture shows his excitement when I asked him how big the fish are that he catches here. 

He laughed with me and I reminded myself of my father. I used to wonder why he walked along the dock talking to everyone and I realized he was genuinely interested in the lives of others. He was a storyteller. I am my father's daughter. 

The clouds have covered the sun and this blissful moment I feel is slipping away. I've changed the music to quiet classical and my mood is softening even more. 

Amarante is a beautiful little town on a river, lost and forgotten in the hills of Northern Portugal. It won't be forgotten by me.

What a glorious day!

Tomorrow morning I have to be at the bus station before the sunrise for a 5 hr direct bus to Lisbon. From there I will catch an hour train ride to Setubal to see my boy and see my cousin that I have not seen for 40 years. I'm guessing there will be wine involved. 

The rest of my evening will involve getting organized for my crazy early departure and hopefully a solid sleep. 

Sending love to you all. Know that I miss you all very much ❤

Love is the invisible in the usual. Think about that. 

Boa Noite x

Day 31 Divine Intervention

It's amazing how very different people are. I had two very opposite interactions with two very opposite Portuguese senior men this morning. The first one was having coffee and staring at me as I walked past. So I smiled as I naturally do and said Bom Dia. He continued to stare with a miserable expression. Relentless in my will to spread joy, I nodded my head very dramatically without breaking the stare back and said Bom Dia really clearly, louder and slower. I think he may have caved and given me back a partial nod. I continued walking, giggling to myself and found a bus stop. I was reading the schedule trying to determine what time to expect the bus and a very nice man started telling me which bus to take and what time it was coming and how long it would take and then he wished me a bom viagem and off he went. He was helpful on his own accord and just a kind old soul. The bus was scheduled to depart my stop in 10 minutes so I waited. Although Bom Jesus is only 5kms away, it is at the top of a mountain so easy decision. This church was very important on my must see list. It has a choice of hundreds of stairs or a funicular. It is said that if you climb all the stairs on your knees you will be forgiven for all of your sins. If I climbed on my knees, I'd never walk again hahaha. 

I was waiting for the bus and a lady came into the shelter with me and I asked her in Portuguese how much it cost to go by bus and she told me 1.50€

She was of course curious about me as I do look very much like the pilgrim that I am. She asked if I was going to Santiago and I said no but  I had just been there. Our conversation continued and she asked about my pilgrimage, my route, my time, my distance and my current plan. Keep in mind this was in Portuguese as she spoke not a word of English. We talked about her family, my family and as two strangers we quickly became two friends. I asked her about my route to Guimaraes and she told me it is over 30kms because of the mountains. She wrote on a paper, where to take the bus and connect with another. She even drew me a map. The bus was supposed to come in 10 minutes but already at least 30 minutes had passed. Apparently I don't have the best luck with buses.

So she gets on the phone and calls her husband to come pick her up. She tells me her plan and offers to take me instead of waiting for the bus. Although it took a couple attempts to understand, honestly, I didn't hesitate to say yes. She had been kind from the beginning and my gut felt nothing but good, loving energy. Just after we agreed, the bus pulled up and the doors opened in front of me. She pulled out the phone again and grilled her husband asking what's taking him so long and with that he pulled up behind the bus and I had a quick decision to make. I stuck with my decision and went with my new friend. Her husband was equally kind and they even took me on the scenic high route so that I could see the Sanctuary as well. 

They were very proud of their city and rightfully so. As the car climbed and turned I was getting the personal tour and they were pointing out churches and other sights. 

We arrived at the Sanctuary and Alice came with me and showed me around while her husband Joseppe waited in the car. We entered the Sanctuary and being Dia a Mae, Mothers Day, in Portugal everyone was praying to Senhora Nossa Maria.

We took pictures of the view and I took a selfie with Alice. 

We then got back in their car and drove to Bom Jesus but the road was closed.

There was a cycling tournament or race of some kind so we had to go a different way. Originally Alice was going to go with me but instead she invited me to eat at her house. At this point it was hard to say no to anything. They were treating me like family. 

They dropped me off at the bottom of the hundreds of stairs knowing I wanted to climb and I even left my backpack in their trunk. The plan was to meet me at the bottom of the funicular at 1300. Keep in mind, still not a word of english has been spoken and I am relying on my sketchy portuguese to understand these new very important instructions. I also don't have phone service because my 30 day European access has expired. Still I was confident I understood. We parted ways and I started the climb up. 

It was cloudy but I could still see Braga in the distance. At the top was a garden of eden, a Cathedral and 2 Paradors.

 There were artists, photographers, locals and tourists. I first entered the Cathedral and walked in on a mass. I stayed a while and enjoyed the choir. I snuck back out to walk in the garden since I was limited with time.

 I was moving freely without my giant backpack and was no longer being stared at by judging eyes. I just blended in. I treated myself to an ice cream and watched as a wedding party slowly gathered around the Cathedral.

 I had some fun with my camera lens photographing some of the wedding guests and surroundings.

 I didn't want to be late to meet up with my new friends so I took the Funicular to the bottom for 1.5€

I waited at the bottom since I was little early but at 1300 my chauffeur arrived. This time Joseppe brought their 31yr old daughter Carolina and left Alice at home to cook. Carolina was shy at first but slowly warmed up. The ride to their home was all of 2 mins.

Their home was beautiful. A garden full of flowers and impeccably landscaped. I entered into the kitchen and was smacked in the face with the most amazing smelling portuguese cooking. 

I was given a place to sit and a glass of water and we chatted while Alice cooked. Joseppe and Carolina went to take food to an elderly man, maybe his father, I'm not sure. While they were gone and Alice was busy in the kitchen, I explored the garden and enjoyed the brief moments of sun and the pretty flowers. 

Alice made the most traditional regional dish of Minho called Pica do chão. I hope I spelled that right haha. It was chicken (frango) with rice cooked in Sango de frango. (Blood of the chicken).

We relocated to a dining room and had a soft cheese with red wine from Douro to start, then the Pica do Chão. It was simply amazing. Best tasting meal I've had in 31 days. Then for dessert we had another cheese with marmalade and opened a bottle of Alvarinho, white and bubbly and fresh.

For my 2nd dessert, a glass of Port Wine... sweet and very smooth. 

It was so lovely and I repeatedly tried my best to express my most heartfelt gratitude for today. It was a Camino moment for sure and the only two words needed to describe to you my interpretation of the day...

Divine Intervention. On Mother's day no less.

Before leaving, I was given a tour of their home and their beautiful backyard with a view of Bom Jesus on top of the mountain.

We went back inside and FaceTimed my Mom. She and Alice had a full conversation in Portuguese. 

After all that this lovely family did for me today they also  insisted on doing more. They drove me to the next town on my list, Guimaraes. It was a 10-15 min drive on a highway and the rolling green hills and mountains for sure would have either destroyed me or I would have been lost for days without phone service. Not smart at all. 

It still blows my mind how two strangers met at a bus stop, spent the day together, shared a meal and became so comfortably friends. Two strangers who connected and chose to trust one another. Friendship born from a simple act of kindness. 

When we said our goodbyes and I gave my final thanks to this wonderful couple, I hugged each of them and was hugged back. Two years of Covid, no shaking hands, no hugging, no dinners and drinks with friends and isolating ourselves from others .

And here, on a busy street in a foreign city, I was shown such a beautiful act of kindness and humanity. My heart is so full.

My belly was also very full and I needed a nap haha.

 Instead I walked it off exploring the historic town of Guimaraes. 

The castle I wanted to see, and also previously a home to a Portuguese president, was closed. It's open everyday of the year except for 4 days. Today is one of those!!

But that's OK, I took some pictures of the exterior and roamed around town. It was  scenic and busy but with so much charm. 

Beautiful shops with floral decor to draw me to them and plenty of Restaurants, Cafés and sweet shops.

After I had my fill of touring, I headed back to my place but was distracted by music. I was drawn to it and took a small detour. It led me to a small courtyard where locals had formed a circle of men playing the accordion. The women were singing and the elderly were dancing. 

There were no obvious sign of joy like smiles or laughter but the energy was joyous and clearly everyone was celebrating Mother's Day.

I'm already looking forward to celebrating with my own family. 

I'm in for the night, skipping dinner on account of my giant lunch. I have wine in my room and hope that I can sleep through the sounds of the city streets and with paper thin walls, I sure hope my new neighbours are super tired when they get back.

I already know way too much about them! ha!

I forced a cough just so they know how loud they are and that I am here. 

I may have to sleep with music or TV tonight. 

Tomorrow, I'm walking and bussing to Amarante since it is over 30kms and I'm hoping for sunshine!

Happy Portuguese Mother's Day!! 

Boa Noite x

Day 30 On the Road Again

Funny how I've only just left Santiago, my feet are in need of weeks to heal and yet I'm sitting on a bus to Braga wondering which Camino to do next. 

I rode the bus for an hour with my bladder suffering and disappointed in myself for not using the facilities at the bus station. I did go there but almost died from the stench and decided to hold it. That was mistake number one.

I realized after an hour that the bus has a micro sized toilet on board. I saw a man get up to use it and turn back so I foolishly assumed it was out of order. That was mistake number two. Trying to accept I would have a couple more hours of suffering, I then noticed a while later, a woman coming out. So trying to disguise my joy, I calmly went to the micro door and saw that it requires 1€ to use. I reached in my pocket and had just that. I really do have angels with me. 

So here is where it gets funny. I went in (first time in a bus bathroom) and I closed the door and locked it. That was mistake number three. The light didn't come on as I expected it to. Silly me, left my phone on my seat so no flashlight. That was mistake number four. I went to open the door again to let in the light but it wouldn't open. It was pitch black and I couldn't see anything. Immediately I had a minor panic attack thinking, this is how I go. Dying of embaressment, locked in a dark, bus toilet closet. I took a moment to think and started feeling around the walls. I felt something dangling above my head and thought 'what if it's a panic button with a pull cord and the bus screeches to a halt because of me'. So I kept feeling the walls and eventually felt a wall switch and pushed it. A light came on and I felt immediately relieved. Then I saw, next to the light switch, a push button alarm that says STOP. I'm telling you.... Angels. Can you imagine if I pressed the wrong one? hahaha. I sat back down at my seat, nobody knowing the panic I just endured and within minutes my bus pulled over on the side of the highway.  Our driver has not said why, he has not made any announcements and the A/C  is now off. My water bottle is in the baggage holder with my backpack as are my snacks.

It's getting warm and the relentless tick tock of our hazard lights are driving me bonkers. I hope none of these people have a flight to catch.

For me, only laundry awaits me. I did get to a point however that I was considering putting on my pack and just walking away from the bus. If we weren't on the side of a highway, I would have for sure

The moral of the story is keep your phone with you at all times, always pee first before anything and take the train!! Haha.

Time lapse : 2 hours later.

We sat on the bus for 30 mins without air so there was a mutiny and a rebellion and we all left the bus to breathe. 

I sat in a shady spot and was told I could not have my luggage until the new bus came. Most everyone was up in arms without water or snacks so the bus driver caved and it was a free for all.

Fortunately for me, I had some wine leftover from my Santiago celebration so I drank it roadside listening to everyone grumbling in another language. It was like watching a foreign soap opera without subtitles.

I apologize... I had several pages more written after that last sentence but started falling asleep with my thumb on the backspace button. Hahaha. I am not rewriting any of it.

To conclude my story, 2 buses showed up to rescue us eventually and I made it to the beautiful town of Braga. 

It's amazing. I walked to the Historic part of town and have been to every Church and Cathedral. 

I've done my laundry, picked up groceries and made my own dinner.  My new neighbours even got a free concert while I was cooking and singing with my balcony door open.

I'm exhausted and hoping for a good sleep so I can walk some more tomorrow. I'm going to aim for 20kms. 

That plan might change by morning.. we'll see!!

Good night my friends x

Day 29 ~ The Way to Santiago

They say here in Spain that all roads lead to Santiago. My path today was mostly through vibrant green forested trails and a few little sleepy hamlets. 

The birds sang to me the entire way. I woke up earlier than usual. Perhaps the excitement of reaching the Cathedral. Perhaps it was knowing the road would be long and the trail would slowly climb for most of it. 

I left my place and finally had the pleasure of walking at dawn and watching the sun rise.

 What started as a chilly morning, as always,  it became a scorcher of a day, peaking at 29°.It was an easy exit from Padron and though the trail was initially crowded, today the pilgrims started the day quietly and at peace.

 Most dropped off the trail quickly to get their coffees and breakfast. I shot my coffee down like tequila and hit the trail at a good speed.

 It's great to start pain free and full of caffeine. I had a bounce in my step and a smile on my face. 

I had almost immediately found the sweet spot and for the first 3 hours I couldn't see or hear a pilgrim in front of me or behind me. It was blissful. The sweet spot is the gap in the masses and is very rare within 100kms of Santiago. After 2 or 3 kms of walking, I saw Bruno stepping out of his hotel and as I walked quickly passed him laughing, he had the deer in the headlights look. Clearly he wasn't expecting to see me this early with my Eugene jets on. I didn't even stop. I told him in passing that I found my mojo and was unstoppable ha!

I couldn't change pace and risk losing the sweetspot.

By mid morning, I slowed to take another picture and I saw Bruno walking at me like a competitive speedwalker. He didn't stop either, he said in passing, "you don't want to see what's coming, better keep moving"and with that he sped off.  I laughed a little and kept taking my pictures and then around the corner coming from behind me, was a herd of pilgrims.

 It reminded me of a scene from the Walking Dead when a herd of zombies close in on a town and the road they walk on disappears under the feet of the crowd. I'm sure the pilgrims approaching were lovely and happy and feeling very much alive but I still put my jets back on. 

I stopped for more jet fuel and had the pleasure of seeing Sean and shortly after Liz and Eugene. Liz had sent me the most beautiful message in the morning and her kind words were perhaps why I walked with smile. 

After having coffee, the road was a constant but gentle incline with only a few steep parts, nothing these broken feet couldn't manage. It was a long walk but being stubborn and eager to arrive, I pushed on. I stopped to take a rock out of my shoe beside a small farm with little lambs playing and chasing their Mums as kids do. I would love to have a hobby farm someday. 

I didn't stop again until I was within 8kms of Santiago. I found a small church, with my Grandmother's name. I took that as a sign to rest and have a moment.

My feet are quite honestly feeling destroyed and the remaining 8kms were beyond painful. 

I had a pre arrival glass of wine with my American pilgrim friend Greg who I have shared many walks and talks. My closest Camino family member and therefore the chosen pilgrim to celebrate with on arrival. We bought a bottle of wine 2kms from the square and walked the final steps together to the Cathedral. 

We both found our different trail friends and hugs were shared and photos taken. 

Shortly after, a shady spot with my name on it called to me. 

Sheltered from the heat, leaning against the old bricks with the Cathedral before us, Greg and I easily polished off a delightful bottle of Rioja.

 Greg kindly guarded my belongings and I hobbled with Jacinta to the Pilgrim office to collect my Compostela. 

This time I chose to officiate my journey with my maiden name and to honour my father who walks beside me every day.

Every bird that sings to me is him. Every beam of sunlight that finds me through the trees, is him. Every feather I find at my feet has fallen from an angel's wings, and those wings are his. Everything in life is a choice. How we see the world and how we live our lives. There are signs and symbols everywhere and how we interpret them is also a choice.

Life is a journey. Life is a Camino. In my life today, I am feeling awake and aware and in the moment. I have learned to be true to myself, to see things as they are, not as I wish them to be. I've learned to take something positive from every interaction and every hardship. I have learned that there is no end to learning.

I am eternally grateful for the lessons, for the enlightenment and for the opportunity to share such a profound experience with some truly remarkable people.

Walking the streets of Santiago, for me, brought back many memories from 2018 and 2021. I remembered those that walked with me then and recalled moments of laughter and love. There is a magic about this town that is undeniable. 

Greg and I met up for Chuleton and wine and finally Santiago cake. We had an indoor table at an open window in one of the main squares decorated with pink tulips, flowering trees, and a fountain steps from the Cathedral.

 It was a lovely evening with great food, wine of course  and great friendship.

It was an early night for me. Time to reflect. Time to heal. Time to rest. 

As I walked under the arches and to my lovely little place, I was serenaded by an opera singer, this time it was the deep, powerful bass of a male voice that sang to me in the streets of Santiago.

Today is a day off in Braga and back to Portugal. I have laundry to tend to and some historical sights to explore.

There are still a few kms to tackle before I kiss these boots goodbye. 

To my friends and family, I love you and Thank you for your support, your love and your words of encouragement.

To my new pilgrim friends,

I wish for you all a beautiful journey as it does not end in Santiago. I hope all that you seek in the way of peace, love and light finds you. You will not be forgotten and I thank you for your friendship and smiles on my own journey.

Bom Caminho! xx