They say here in Spain that all roads lead to Santiago. My path today was mostly through vibrant green forested trails and a few little sleepy hamlets.
The birds sang to me the entire way. I woke up earlier than usual. Perhaps the excitement of reaching the Cathedral. Perhaps it was knowing the road would be long and the trail would slowly climb for most of it.
I left my place and finally had the pleasure of walking at dawn and watching the sun rise.
What started as a chilly morning, as always, it became a scorcher of a day, peaking at 29°.It was an easy exit from Padron and though the trail was initially crowded, today the pilgrims started the day quietly and at peace.
Most dropped off the trail quickly to get their coffees and breakfast. I shot my coffee down like tequila and hit the trail at a good speed.
It's great to start pain free and full of caffeine. I had a bounce in my step and a smile on my face.
I had almost immediately found the sweet spot and for the first 3 hours I couldn't see or hear a pilgrim in front of me or behind me. It was blissful. The sweet spot is the gap in the masses and is very rare within 100kms of Santiago. After 2 or 3 kms of walking, I saw Bruno stepping out of his hotel and as I walked quickly passed him laughing, he had the deer in the headlights look. Clearly he wasn't expecting to see me this early with my Eugene jets on. I didn't even stop. I told him in passing that I found my mojo and was unstoppable ha!
I couldn't change pace and risk losing the sweetspot.
By mid morning, I slowed to take another picture and I saw Bruno walking at me like a competitive speedwalker. He didn't stop either, he said in passing, "you don't want to see what's coming, better keep moving"and with that he sped off. I laughed a little and kept taking my pictures and then around the corner coming from behind me, was a herd of pilgrims.
It reminded me of a scene from the Walking Dead when a herd of zombies close in on a town and the road they walk on disappears under the feet of the crowd. I'm sure the pilgrims approaching were lovely and happy and feeling very much alive but I still put my jets back on.
I stopped for more jet fuel and had the pleasure of seeing Sean and shortly after Liz and Eugene. Liz had sent me the most beautiful message in the morning and her kind words were perhaps why I walked with smile.
After having coffee, the road was a constant but gentle incline with only a few steep parts, nothing these broken feet couldn't manage. It was a long walk but being stubborn and eager to arrive, I pushed on. I stopped to take a rock out of my shoe beside a small farm with little lambs playing and chasing their Mums as kids do. I would love to have a hobby farm someday.
I didn't stop again until I was within 8kms of Santiago. I found a small church, with my Grandmother's name. I took that as a sign to rest and have a moment.
My feet are quite honestly feeling destroyed and the remaining 8kms were beyond painful.
I had a pre arrival glass of wine with my American pilgrim friend Greg who I have shared many walks and talks. My closest Camino family member and therefore the chosen pilgrim to celebrate with on arrival. We bought a bottle of wine 2kms from the square and walked the final steps together to the Cathedral.
We both found our different trail friends and hugs were shared and photos taken.
Shortly after, a shady spot with my name on it called to me.
Sheltered from the heat, leaning against the old bricks with the Cathedral before us, Greg and I easily polished off a delightful bottle of Rioja.
Greg kindly guarded my belongings and I hobbled with Jacinta to the Pilgrim office to collect my Compostela.
This time I chose to officiate my journey with my maiden name and to honour my father who walks beside me every day.
Every bird that sings to me is him. Every beam of sunlight that finds me through the trees, is him. Every feather I find at my feet has fallen from an angel's wings, and those wings are his. Everything in life is a choice. How we see the world and how we live our lives. There are signs and symbols everywhere and how we interpret them is also a choice.
Life is a journey. Life is a Camino. In my life today, I am feeling awake and aware and in the moment. I have learned to be true to myself, to see things as they are, not as I wish them to be. I've learned to take something positive from every interaction and every hardship. I have learned that there is no end to learning.
I am eternally grateful for the lessons, for the enlightenment and for the opportunity to share such a profound experience with some truly remarkable people.
Walking the streets of Santiago, for me, brought back many memories from 2018 and 2021. I remembered those that walked with me then and recalled moments of laughter and love. There is a magic about this town that is undeniable.
Greg and I met up for Chuleton and wine and finally Santiago cake. We had an indoor table at an open window in one of the main squares decorated with pink tulips, flowering trees, and a fountain steps from the Cathedral.
It was a lovely evening with great food, wine of course and great friendship.
It was an early night for me. Time to reflect. Time to heal. Time to rest.
As I walked under the arches and to my lovely little place, I was serenaded by an opera singer, this time it was the deep, powerful bass of a male voice that sang to me in the streets of Santiago.
Today is a day off in Braga and back to Portugal. I have laundry to tend to and some historical sights to explore.
There are still a few kms to tackle before I kiss these boots goodbye.
To my friends and family, I love you and Thank you for your support, your love and your words of encouragement.
To my new pilgrim friends,
I wish for you all a beautiful journey as it does not end in Santiago. I hope all that you seek in the way of peace, love and light finds you. You will not be forgotten and I thank you for your friendship and smiles on my own journey.
Bom Caminho! xx
No comments:
Post a Comment