Day 3 ~ Sunday by the Sea

Day 3 Lisboa

The sun is shining but the wind is putting some serious chill in the air. I probably should have kept the warmer clothes and left behind the shorts. I've found a sunny corner leaning up against the outside walls of the Convento do Carmo. It's an archeological museum.... without a roof. 

It opens at 10 am and I'd like to see it before the tourists arrive.

Dom and I had a filling breakfast together at our hotel this morning but I'm off adventuring in the city and he has gone back to rest his weary legs. He was quite pleasant this morning despite having heard my confessions of plotting his demise while he snored and I stared at the ceiling. I can't even be mad... first because I love him, second because he doesn't snore on purpose. He snores loud enough to wake me but when I accept defeat and resolve to rise and shine, he goes silent and sleeps like an innocent child. It is my goal to understand his sleep pattern so I can adjust accordingly. My other ideas are sleep in shifts or buy some melatonin. I've tried ear plugs, music and even 3 glasses of wine to knock me out and I'm still losing the battle. We start the Camino tomorrow...and I'm going into this exhausted. 

While I waited I took in the views from the top of the Elevador da Justa but had to find refuge from the wind.

I waited in that sunny spot until 10 am and when the doors didn't open I read the sign and it said closed on Sundays hahaha. Oooops.

I picked up a coffee to go and updated Dom. He chose not to join in on today's adventure and that's ok. We've both got city burnout. I can only be surrounded by noise and people for a limited time... I need open space or a trail or a secluded beach. 

I made my way downhill to the waterfront and followed the shoreline.

It was very industrial and not very pretty for the first 4kms or so. 

After crossing under the bridge 'Ponte de 25 Abril' the view grew more appealing. 

I watched sailboats leaving the harbour and witnessed a collision on the overcrowded waterway. 

I also spent a good hour or more struggling to understand how everyone else was managing without public restrooms. It became a treasure hunt of sorts but I was eventually successful. I found a Canadian Poutine stand with gf options so I treated myself to a mid-day snack. 

I walked 18kms today in total. I went as far as the Tower of Belem. 

It was a stunning park and a beautiful, sunny day. There were some soccer players having a match in the park and as I walked past them, their ball went astray, towards me. I jogged a couple steps forward and stopped it with my foot. I then gave my best kick to return it to them and they all cheered. I threw my arms up like a Champ in a dramatic fashion because well...it's soccer. It put a big smile on my face and seemed like the opportune time to head back home. 

I took a more inland route home to avoid the same sights. I saw Mosteiro dos Jeronimo....I would have liked to see the interior but not today. 

I walked past many museums but opted to keep heading home. Ever since that dreadful 5 hour airport line, I just won't line up for anything. 

It was an easy uneventful walk back but a good climb up a very steep hill to get to our hotel. 

I took a much needed nap before heading back out with Dom. He went shopping after spoiling himself with Portuguese Sushi... I went to a very local tiny place steps from our room and grabbed grilled cod to go. I have some wine in the room and chose a quiet night in. Last night I blew the budget with my indulgent wine fest (was soooo good though) so tonight I behaved. It's all about balance and moderation.

Tomorrow we begin our Caminho do Mar. We will likely take a train out of the city and start somewhere after the Tower of Belem. Maybe Estoril... we'll see.

Lisbon is lovely, it truly is and there is so much here to see and do. My mind, my feet and my spirit are eager for our journey to Santiago.

Boa noite and beijos xx

Day 2 ~ Exploring Lisbon

Missed another sunrise today. Tomorrow I will try harder. Another crappy sleep to blame. I did however move us to a better location and a new home for 2 nights. Hopefully with quieter neighbours.

We had a late start today but packed up our belongings and climbed down and then back up to our new spot, only 1 km away.

 Still too early to check in so we found a very local café off the beaten path and sat in the sun enjoying potent caffeine and the best fresh squeezed orange juice... ever.

The convenience of a European sim card came in handy today. I called the new hotel and asked if we could, at the very least, drop off our luggage. These Lisbon hills are very hard on Dominick's unprepared legs... especially with the extra weight of his pack. Hopefully the Camino will break him in a little slower.

Today we committed ourselves to exploring the harbourfront. It was a beautiful sunny day.  

Instead of finding peace however Dom was approached and offered drugs. Needless to say, he declined.

I walked past Praça de Commercio and a Museum of Bacalhao. 

I walked past a maritime monument and a man building towers of stone.

 It is Saturday so it's very busy with day trippers. There was a lady serving cocktails in gutted pineapples and music thumping from portable speakers.

After passing through the chaos, I found my way to the Sé of Lisbon. 

A Cathedral built in 1174. It was worth far more than the 4€ admission fee. 

In fact,  it was stunning. It included a tour of artifacts, cloaks and furnishings and then a tour of the church itself.

My father was not a religious man and I was not raised in a religious home. I do however have a great respect and fascination with history. I often feel very spiritual and connected to my father. I thought of him and a lit a candle in remembrance. 

In addition, I managed to get an official stamp for my Camino passport and for Dom as well.

The official place to start our Camino.

After some quiet time in the Cathedral I continued on to Alfama. This, as you can imagine, involved a climb.

A cobblestone climb. I made it to a viewpoint and observed how the cool people enjoy a Saturday. Being nerdy, I didn't stay long and eventually moved on. I found a pasteleria and a table with a window. 

I ordered sopa and orange juice. Tasted like sopa da minha aVó. 

As I reached the bottom of the bowl, I found an elbow noodle. That means gluten. I will let you know how that goes. It was a carrot based soup with cabbage and chick peas... and apparently a couple of noodles. BUT IT WAS SOOOO GOOD. I also ordered tomato rice.... 

I paid my bill of 6€ and kept climbing, exploring the streets of Alfama. I climbed to another church and entertained my spiritual soul then continued to an overlook of the city. Here I found a view and entertainment.

 Dom let me know he had checked in and was  decompressing in our new home so I sped up my return by hopping on the no. 28 tram.

The cute little yellow streetcars drive like the devil coming for your soul. It was like riding a Rollercoaster in your geriatric years. It was fast and painful but I survived.

I bought myself a cappuccino as I reached my new hood and took it to go from a very convenient stand near the main square. 

I made it back to the new room and found a giant loaf of a man child starfished on his bed. I tried to rest, I really did, but I can't, I really don't know how. So I said hello and goodbye and left my big starfish behind. I wandered around until I found a fabulous patio for vinho tinto.

 I'm not going  to lie... I might be a little drunk. I'm on my  generous 3rd glass and my waitress is a gem. I'm at Bairro do Avillez. The menu is very indicative of gluten free options. They actually brought me fresh baked gluten free bread and a 

Charcuterie board of gf chorizo and queijo. Did I mention I'm on my 3rd glass of wine? hahaha.

Dominick has actually joined me!! We have ordered sopa alentejana com bacalhao e ovo escelfado.(soup with cod and a poached egg)

OMG ITS SOOOO GOOD!!

The food is superior here... not even going to debate.

I'm freezing though... starting to worry about having weeded out my warm clothes. Wow.... the patio heater just came on.... I love when the universe picks up my vibe!

I made it back to my room but may have walked sideways.

It's early but I'm done. I caught a glimpse of the golden hour but don't really have a vantage point of the sun sinking. I'm surrounded by buildings.

I had a fabulous chat with Riley tonight. I miss my girl and I miss my gang.

Cheers to you all on this fine Saturday night from Lisbon.

Beijos and boa noite!

X

Day 1- Visiting the past

Day 1 Lisboa.

My alarm was set for pre dawn with the best intentions of catching the sunrise. But...I just couldn't do it. I really did have a terrible sleep. Our guest house has paper thin walls so I can hear everything above us and beside us. Neighbour 1 has nocturia and neighbour 2 likes the sound of her own voice and is into dropping things. In addition to noisy neighbours,  Dominick snores.... how did I not mentally prepare for that? The few times it did get quiet I could then hear the dripping and gurgling of a water heater and could focus on nothing else. It could have also been the coffees that kept me awake or the unfamiliar mattress or the fact that there is no big brown lab at the foot of the bed.

It was also my first sleep away from home and that always takes getting used to.

We managed to get out to explore while the city still slept and enjoyed taking pictures in the soft morning light. 

We walked towards the water and just let the streets guide us. We eventually found a vodaphone store and bought sim cards for our phones so we dont have to worry about getting seperated and can access google maps as needed. 

We let the cobblestones tenderize our feet all morning but stopped to rest with coffee, orange juice and fried pork steaks for Dom. My breakfast was a market banana for 35 cents.

After we refueled, we climbed an unimaginable amount of stairs to get to Castelo Sao Jorge.

 It was a short wait to get tickets but worth it for the views and the screaming peacocks.

 Until today I had no idea these beautiful birds were so loud. 

After enjoying views of the city in every direction, we left to explore the Alfama district. First however, we were lured onto a restaurant patio with photos of pulvo and promises of a tasty lunch. 

I enjoyed a thin steak with veggies and a giant glass of wine. Dom ate pulvo (octopus) with veggies and was also pleased. 

The wine helped disguise the effort involved in walking back to our room. 

Once there, Dom went into nap mode and I chose to head back out to explore.

I decided to walk to one of my mother's childhood neighbourhoods called Ajuda to see an apartment she lived in many years ago. I had only a street name and an old photograph as reference. 

I found it, looking a little aged and took a new picture for her.

It was a very long walk back... I walked a total of 24kms today and though tired, I am feeling strong. Not carrying a 25lb pack makes a big difference!

Instead of 2 hours, I was gone for 3.5. Too late to beat the Friday night dinner rush so after circling our neighbourhood like hungry vultures, Dom and I bought meat and cheese , sweet tomatoes and a small bottle of wine from a tiny market. 

We came back to our room to enjoy a peaceful picnic. It was fantastic but neighbour 2 is back at it... dropping things, big things, big loud noisy things.

I really need a good sleep.... more to explore tomorrow

Cheers! and beijos xx

Boa Noite.

Patience is a Virtue... Right?

The idea of flying out after work was in hopes that the exhaustion would prevent insomnia. Crying babies and the physical discomfort of a 7 hour night flight in a micro seat trumped my fatigue.

Either the aircraft seat space is shrinking or I am expanding. Even the chair back table was half it's normal size as was the micro meal that was served. Thankfully the wine was a full serving.

I slept for maybe 30 minutes total time... in an upright position. It was otherwise an uneventful flight and yes, that's a good thing!

After landing, all passengers were kept waiting in a hall for over an hour without moving so much as an inch. 

We were already dehydrated, hungry and eager for fresh air. 

We were feeling too grateful to be on an adventure to complain and so remained patient. Eventually we were released to a room of turnstiles with thousands of passengers. 

 Most people were patient however many missed connecting flights and were beyond disappointed. After hours passed, some travelers began to succumb to the exhaustion of standing for a prolonged period of time and medics were brought in.

 5 and a half hours had passed before we reached the customs officer. She asked us 2 questions. Where are you going and please remove your mask. Stamp. Stamp. Off you go. Did not ask about vaccines (in fact no one did at either airport) and did not ask for covid test results (an $80 money grab for Shoppers Drugmart and/or Ontario Health)

We purchased 2 Litres of water at an airport shop near the exit to bring us back to life and quickly escaped into a taxi feeling traumatized. 

Our taxi driver was a little old man named Orlando who must have sensed our need for silence for he said not a word. He drove like a 16 year old kid who just got his license and was still learning to brake with a gentle foot. It was a challenge to relax. He did however get us quickly to our guest house in central Lisbon. We checked in with ease and were happy with our 3rd floor room overlooking the cobblestone streets. 

The stairs were narrow and a little short for Dominick's size 13 feet but the view was worth the extra climb.

We freshened up and hoped for a nap but the excitement over shadowed the fatigue.

 Instead of napping we toured our neighbourhood and found a pharmacy, a coffee stand, a market and a patio. 

We were more hungry than tired so both ordered up a traditional fish dinner swimming in olive oil. I had cod sitting on a bed of potatoes and rapini.

 Dominick had fish stuffed with veggies and bacon.

Of course I had a large glass of much needed wine and it was excellent! 

We couldn't help but notice how attractive all the locals were and laughed hysterically at some fairly hideous pictures we took of each other. 

It was a day and evening that covered every range of emotion but ended in liberating laughter. 

I've thought often of my grandparents as I hear portuguese spoken all around me and am pleased with how much I remember and am able to speak and understand. 

This has never been my home but I certainly feel at home here.

Boa Noite!

Beijos xx

I will walk beside you

Today I wrote a letter to my son Dominick that I would like to share with you. He took a chance and requested 5 weeks off to travel to Portugal with me just as was intended 2 years ago and then postponed, twice. I am very happy to tell you, his request was approved. I feel so grateful to have this opportunity, to walk another Camino and to share it with my son. 

After writing him a note to prepare him once again for our journey, I realized that my words might help others to prepare for their own Camino as well. Enjoy!

 " Dear son, this is not an easy journey but every step will be worthwhile. We are hiking about 700kms in total. We will average between 20 to 25 kms per day. 11 of those days we will be walking 30kms or more. There are only 2 rest days scheduled at the half way point but we will have three rest days at the very end to celebrate our accomplishments. Sometimes having expectations can set you up for disappointment but other times having realistic expectations can leave you feeling better prepared for what lies ahead. Walking on a pilgrimage like this is likely to bring change. Change will come in 3 parts. First part is physical, then mental and finally spiritual. Your body will take a couple of weeks to adjust to your new schedule then it will go into auto-pilot. This will take your focus from your body to your mind. You will find yourself deep in thought for most of your walk and perhaps if you are lucky even have an epiphany. Spiritually, you may feel reconnected to yourself, or your roots or to your faith whatever that may be.

  Here is what to expect: 

 1. Expect pain. Blisters. Cramps. Sore feet. Sore legs and a sore back. 

 2. Expect rain. It is inevitable. It is springtime. 

 3. Expect wind and fog. We will be walking most days by the Ocean. 

 4. Expect some road walking…industrial zones, busy city streets but also forest trails, beach boardwalks, quiet neighbourhoods, and farm lanes. Lots of cobblestone. 

 5. Expect beautiful sunsets and expect me to attend each and every one. 

 6. Expect to be woken very early every day. We roll at dawn and the goal is to see every sunrise. 

 7. Expect to be very tired and very hungry….the moment you stop walking and arrive at your home for the night. 

 8. Expect to wait until 8pm for dinner….this is the normal dinner time. Expect to eat A LOT of fish, seafood, bread and meat. 

 9. Expect me to stop in every church and tour every cathedral and to slow us down with kodak moments 

 10. Expect to make friends but try listening more than talking, you will learn more. Everybody has a story to tell. Be respectful. Some pilgrims are seeking solitude. Some will seek your company. We are all on a path of self-discovery and enlightenment 

 11. Expect to find peace and mental clarity but be patient, it won’t happen in one day. Don’t give up. Ever. Peace will come. 

 12. Expect less than perfect beds, small showers, small rooms and stairs to climb after a long day. 

 13. Expect to lose your way. 

 14. Expect to find your way. 

 15. Expect a difficult transition back to reality and working again but know that you will be ok, life is a Camino – continue to apply what you learn on this journey in all areas of your life 

 16. Expect the Camino to call you back for the rest of your life.

  What NOT to expect: 

 1. Do not expect sympathy. This pilgrimage is a choice. Let it humble you. Treat it with respect and take pride in what you are doing. 

 2. Do not expect a taxi when you need one, or water when you are thirsty or food when you are hungry BUT have faith the Camino provides. You may not always get what you want but you will always find what you need. 

 3. Do not expect me to have all the answers all the time. I will walk beside you and I will lead you home again but I too am on my own journey. 

 4. Do not expect to find all the answers you seek or for all your problems to disappear but be confident that you are on the right path 

 5. Do not expect everyone to speak english, we may have to do some charades to communicate. Have fun trying, don't let it frustrate you...be creative! 

 6. Do not expect everything to go as planned. We do have an excellent plan in place but sometimes random events can alter our course and most often the universe is simply redirecting us to where we are meant to be. Be open to change. Be flexible. Adapt. Bom Caminho" 

 Let the packing begin!!!