It's a steakhouse kind of night. "Love is in the Air" is playing in the background, ironically I am alone and have this gorgeous restaurant to myself. I have been poured the most excellent glass of wine and now I wait... and write.
Today was unforgettable for so many reasons. The views today were amazing.
And the wind was like nothing I have ever hiked in before. Steady at 40kms and gale force gusts of wind that had me staggering on the boardwalk. I spent 95% of today's hike on the boardwalk that followed the shoreline almost in its entirety.
The seas were very rough and relentless against the rocky shore. The wind at times was actually howling and the roar of the surf drowned out all other sounds, man made and natural. No cars and no birds....and no evil barking dogs. The sky was a bright blue with a few scattered clouds but nothing that would cover the sun for very long.
At one point I thought it was a hazy day and then realized after not seeing clearly for hours that my glasses were covered in sea spray. I was shocked when I took them off and saw how blue the sky really was.
Do you remember when you were a kid and on super windy days you could lean forward into the wind but you wouldn't fall on your face because you were little and light?? The wind just suspended you....thats how I felt all day today. I had to walk at a sharp forward angle and actually push through the force of the wind.
You know that feeling when you sit on a stationary bike but you can barely peddle because someone left the tension really tight? And you try to peddle anyway but your knees feel like they are going to explode?
That's how my hips and knees felt today fighting the wind.
There wad an exhausting crossing of the Praia do Dunes, the wind was whipping me with sand and it actually felt like thousands of microscopic needles piercing my exposed skin. Fortunately that was only my hands and my ankles. I was covered fairly well and protected from the elements.
I covered my entire face and looked ahead through the thin fabric... I felt like Sandra Bullock in "Bird Box". I walked like that for a few kms.
Speaking of kms... the 22kms I was expecting... turned into 30.55 kms... and that was without wrong turns or getting lost.
My back is much better.
My feet are no longer blistered but the bones just ache. My eyes are tired from the sun and wind and I guarantee I will have no trouble sleeping tonight.
My new place is actually directly on the path of the Camino. I can open my door and just start walking. It is not fancy but it is a spotless, modern room for one... appropriately called Pilgrims Suite. It's on an ancient street, Rua da Igreja and the church is beautiful.
I found 2 stamps today for my Pilgrim Passport and saw several pilgrims. I saw 2 or 3 small groups of Germans, and a Dutchman named Will. A couple others but nations unknown.
Yesterday walking the first 10kms out of Porto without my pack on was brilliant. I took a bus this morning and got off exactly at the spot I walked to yesterday.
Just south of Matosinhos. It has a big beach smack in the middle of fisheries and a busy industrial port.
Looks like a cruise ship port as well. The strong smell of fish was in the morning air and the sea birds were squawking and circling overhead. I made a point of saying 'Bom Dia' to every local no matter how surly they looked. They usually reply with a smile... and the grunts still make me laugh every time. If a local has done the Camino they usually let me know and if I open the door of kindness it usually opens for me in return.
Through all of today's challenges I was happy and delighted to be adventuring. , There was a beach on my route, more of a fisherman's village. It was decorated with traps and buoys and boats turned over on the sand.
The little beach houses were in multiple colours and it was such a typical portuguese scene.
Most pilgrims ahead of me missed it completely. Too busy trying follow the yellow arrows and each other. I went my own way and enjoyed the sights and actually found the hidden boardwalk. The others ended up road walking for that whole section. I kind of felt like I had found a secret and only because I wasn't afraid of taking the road less traveled.
One more funny story before I go to bed... I was walking up the boardwalk and saw in the distance a beach restaurant. They all kind of look like shipping containers but with 2 walls of glass to take in the views.
I kept walking towards it and as I got a little closer I noticed a man standing at the front entrance looking in my direction. Nothing unusual but as I got closer I thought why the hell is this guy staring at me?? I was feeling uncomfortable at this point. Like seriously pal?? Have you never seen a pilgrim before?? He just stood there staring. Didn't look away or move once.
As I approached the restaurant, I saw the 2 German guys walk out and the creepy guy didn't even budge.
I laughed so hard when I finally met up with him. He won't even look me in the eye.
My belly is full and my eyes won't stay open...
Boa Noite snd Beijos xx
That's hillarious!!! I would have thought the same thing if I saw the statue man staring at me!!
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