Day 7~ Blazing our own path to Ericeira

Day 7 Praia Grande to Ericeira 

Today was nothing like I expected or planned. In some ways it was far better than I ever imagined and at one point was almost a major fail. Today Dom and I separated from each other intentionally four times. We will, as a result,  have different versions of the adventures to follow.

Breakfast was included again at our seaside Hotel so we of course filled our very empty bellies (and also my purse with some fruit to go)

As soon as we left the gate we had to climb a steep hill. Of course it was just a parking lot with no exit so we went back down, onto the road and yes... right back up the same hill.

There was a cliff trail and our intent was to follow it but our research indicated that the route was only to be taken at low tide because of a river crossing. Low tide wasn't until 1245 pm so we took the inland route. It was a small detour but the river it was bypassing ended up being a dried up creek. It was early in the day so not a big deal. We knew we had all day to enjoy walking by the sea. 

After some busy road walking we found the seaside trail which kept us happily away from traffic but also dangerously close to the edge of the cliff. We are very high above sea level which is what makes this trek so difficult. 

The trail descends down to every beach or inlet and then also climbs back up.

This brings us to decision 1...

Azenhas do Mar. A tiny little cliffside sea town. I chose the seaside steps all the way down and all the way back the other side.

 Dom avoided the stairs and took the road although I'm fairly certain he had to climb up a steep road anyway just to meet back up with me.

We walked separately but I had him in my sights up ahead.

Dom's ankles and knees are hurting so I suggested having a seat on a bench over looking Praia Magoito.

 This brought us to choice #2. I chose the two million stairs down to the gorgeous beach.

 Dom chose to stay atop the cliff and follow the trail markers. His logic was if he stayed up high he wouldn't have to climb back up. I was concerned that on the beach route, the sand would be sloppy and wet and that I would sink with every step carrying the weight .

 I was delighted to discover the sand was firm. I hiked the entire length of that gorgeous beach with a smile on my face. There were men fishing from the giant rocks jutting out from the shore. 

There were 2 dogs running at full speed the length of the beach which was about 3kms, back and forth. I'm guessing they were the happiest dogs alive. A few times I would catch glimpses of Dom if I looked up at the top of the cliffs. To each other, we were just a tiny little dark figure.

We arrived at our meeting place (a beach restaurant at the end of Praia Magoito)

To my amusement and Dominick's disappointment, he had to climb down to the beach level from his chosen path anyway. 

He says that his walk was waaaay harder. I believe him because my beach walk was pure joy. I was smiling... he was not. I think we both need time to walk on our own each day. There are lessons to be learned in solitude.

We had a quick coffee and bought water bottles to go. We walked towards the waters edge only to discover that we had once again walked into a dead-end parking lot. Feeling the aches and fatigue already, we were irked that we had to turn back.

Even worse was having to climb yet another steep, really steep, enormous hill to find a new path. We consulted with Google maps (once again proving to be a big, fat, stinky liar) but managed to get back on course and onto farm tracks heading in the right direction.

 It wasn't very pretty... and I have a great appreciation for farm land. It seems like the natural land and its pathways have become a dumping ground for broken tiles and old furniture and car parts. We did pass one resident who could see Dom's exhaustion.... my portuguese  came in handy. He wished us a 'boa tarde' and offered Dom water. 

We politely declined and kept moving. As much as I enjoy the countryside and dislike the busy road walking, we were starting to feel really removed from civilization and I was secretly hoping for a road up ahead. Instead we got further into rural life and nothing around us but grass covered lanes. We had a choice to follow the red arrows that had not failed us yet or google (questionable reliability). 

Foolishly, I chose Google. It was a more direct route. We walked past a tiny airport with no planes and a shop with a few angry, over protective dogs and after that, nothing for a long time...the farm track twisted and turned and then it just disappeared into a single track, maybe the width of my shoe, and it dropped right down off and over the edge into a deep dark ravine. Dom was losing his will to continue, and I was losing faith in my planning skills. He had little water left and of course now it's afternoon and our hunger was growing. It started to feel like a crazy adventure, exciting, dangerous and maybe almost stupid to be in the middle of nowhere with a giant that I cannot carry or even drag to safety. 

On a steep trail with no visible destination and now sketchy phone signal. Here comes decision 3... I left Dom to wait on the trail and I continued downward to make sure it wasn't a dead end and a needless climb back up. It was too steep for his knees and ankles so I changed course and found a more gradual track. Instead of backtracking, I called him and guided him to where I was, it was nerve-wracking but we found eachother, we continued downward into the ravine but again I held him back and went on alone to ensure we would be able to cross the water. I actually suggested he go back to the airport we passed and take another path but he declined. We're in this together. So I reached the bottom, and the creek was passable with some bush whacking and stones. 

I made it to the other side but had to start climbing out to have service to call him. I did reach him and urged him forward. His adrenaline fueled him down and across and up to where I waited. In fact he was like a machine and passed me quickly without resting. This impressed me and I scurried to gather up my gear and catch up. 

Our biggest pressure was the reminder messages coming from the property about reception closing at 6. It was now after 4 and still no end in sight. The farm track kept going and so did we, hungry, sore and tired. 

We found a cute fountain in a town with a dozen residents and a cute Jack Russell doggo that greeted me with a ball in his mouth and asked me to play.

 Of course I obliged. I also called our home to be and asked them to call us a ride and pick us up. There was no other way to make it by 6. We were in a town called Cortezia. I spoke to a local and found out that a bus comes through there but only goes to Sintra... basically the opposite direction.

A taxi showed up for us and during the entire ride, twisting and turning up and over more hills, we both agreed we would never have made it the remaining distance. 

Arriving in Ericeira was like a fairy tale.

 A white washed sea town with cobblestones and blue highlights. 

It reminds me of images of the Greek Islands.

There are so many restaurants here.... our home is steps from the sea wall and a perfect spot to watch the sunset, on another day. Today has been cloudy and mild. I can not even imagine how difficult today would have been if it was sunny and hot.

I dropped my gear at our cute room (on the 3rd floor haha) and I left to give Dom space and time to recover as I went off to explore the town.

We met up for dinner at a great little patio and ate well.

 I had soup, grilled chicken and veggies with wine.

 Dom had soup, octopus salad and steak with salad. It was so needed. We talked about the day and Dom said he thought maybe I was part alien from another planet and doesn't think there is anyone else like me.

So I laughed and said, "you mean you didn't have fun today??" I think looking back he will laugh at our misadventure but today he thought he was going to die and I was going to feed him to the goats. 

I thought it was a crazy, fun but exhausting adventure today... I'm ready for more.

Boa Noite and beijos xx