Despite waking up at 5am, I left late this morning. The rain was imminent and I hesitated to leave the warmth of my cozy casa.
I watched out the window in hopes of catching just a glimmer of sunshine but it just didn't happen. It was overcast and I could see the rain in the distance over the ocean slowly moving towards land. I pretended in my mind that I was still getting ready but the truth is I could have left at 7am. I was stalling.
The plan was and always is, to walk, rain or shine. I have all the rain gear and I'm not going to melt but somehow the rain just steals my motivation... that and my feet still hurt. Eventually I just said f*** it. I'm going.
It was a nice, quiet walk out of Oia with just the sound of the ocean waves, a constant hum that I'm getting used to.
There was only one other pilgrim on the path and I assumed that I was the last hiker to leave town. But after a while I had a suspicion that everybody else was waiting out the rain.
It was 0845 and I still had not had coffee. A chilly, rainy morning almost demands coffee. I met a nice Portuguese couple, Philip and Sara at the café where we all filled up on jet fuel. I hid under the canopy and had not one but 2 large coffees . I watched the rain change from a light mist to a full blown assault on all the pilgrims that were slowly beginning to appear. I took my time getting bundled up for my walk, just long enough that it changed back to light showers and off I went again. There was the main road option which a few people took but the actual Camino marked path went up a hill. I almost didn't do it but decided I should. I'm glad I did.
I saw horses just standing in the rain and a collection of hand painted stones. The stones were beautiful and I stayed a bit looking at them all.
The rain, for the most part, stayed away. I was walking slow but steady and was passed by many familiar faces.
Eventually I looked behind me to see Chris, Christine and Julia catching up.
What a nice surprise... and I thought I had fallen way behind. We walked and talked and by lunchtime stopped for a coffee and finally tortilla!!!
After fueling up, we climbed up and over a small mountain, noticeably away from the sea. It was very green and reminded me of the forests in BC.
The path was made of giant stones and where there were dirt tracks, there were puddles of rain water.
I stopped for a moment to take off some layers as the sun was trying to come out. By the time I reached the summit, my young friends were out of sight. I had a chance to get to know each of them a little better and the first 10 to 15 kms we hiked together passed the time quickly. Being alone at the summit provided a good opportunity for me to listen my music... and motivate me down the hill.
When I got to the bottom, after zig zagging my way down through the residential neighbourhood the international crew was there, having drinks.
I did as always visit the church on arrival but then I had a glass of wine and hoped it would numb the pain. I still had to walk another 10km. It worked for a little while. I left with a jump in my step.
I walked alone and it was very peaceful. I made my own path. I stayed by the waters edge, passed through a bay that was being swarmed by sea birds during low tide and walked beside a beautiful Roman bridge.
The last 3 kms were painful for the tender feet but I'm getting used to the pain. Uneventful city walking straight to my low key hotel.
The decor is from 1974 but the hot shower is surely from the Gods. This place has its own restaurant where I sat and ate salad, veggies and grilled chicken. I thought that would be a lighter choice but they still had to call a crane to get me out of my chair.
I stuck with one glass of wine tonight and eagerly went back to my room to rest.
It was a lovely day today. A mix of solitude and comraderie, of sea and the woods and a mix of rain and sunshine.
A very long day ahead....and only 4 to get to Santiago!
Buenos Noches x
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