Day 16 to Coimbra

The sun is scorching hot at the moment and the giant umbrella I'm sitting under is barely covering my face. It's 530pm and I am having a glass of wine to celebrate my arrival in Coimbra. 

I must say, as far as small cities go, this one is gorgeous. It's set on a hillside so there are many stairs and steep cobblestone roads but it has so much character. The streets are mostly for pedestrians in this old town core where the buildings are narrow and 4 stories high, some new, most old and just because it's old town Portugal, there is laundry hanging to dry outside the windows. 

The streets have performers on every corner and I happened to be entertained right now by a young man and his guitar. To my pleasure he is playing many songs from my playlist. 

There are couples, families, tourists and explorers of all ages but what they all have in common is an obvious love for this day and this moment during the golden hour.

Today was an amazing and beautiful walk but also at times quite difficult. I'm nursing 5 blisters now that in all honesty are slowing me down. I am officially now on a 2 day break. Tomorrow morning I'm taking a bus to Porto for 2 planned rest days. Then I will get back on Camino for another 2 weeks of walking. Hopefully that will give my feet enough time to heal.

I was on track this morning. Woke up at the same time as always, at 0600, but was actually out the door and back at the 'man bar' restaurant by 0800. I promised my hostess I would come for breakfast. She had my spot set and made me eggs, ham, and cheese with fruit, yogurt, orange juice and my beloved coffee, meia de leite. She was a lovely hostess and the property was beautiful, I wish I had more time there.

It was very foggy in the morning, actually it lasted more than half the day and I loved it. 

It's ideal for photography and was a huge relief for my sunburn. 

Leaving town was a breeze because the Restaurant was the only thing there. I was at the top of a hill so it was an easy exit. In fact the first half of the day was a delightful walk on mostly natural trails following a dry riverbed. 

For the first time since I started, I saw a few pilgrims. There were two Portuguese women who chatted the entire time so I preferred staying behind them. I'd rather see them all day than have to hear them all day. And I saw a couple from Switzerland. There were quite a few cyclists but all going in the opposite direction.

The fog slowly disappeared by early afternoon, about the same time the foot pain became intolerable. At that point I was again alone and climbing, in the heat. It was an interesting walk though... I passed a few houses on a hill that had a river and an Aqueduct running directly underneath their homes... I had never seen that before.

I read that walking into Coimbra was complex and mostly paved city walking. I decided once I reached the city limits I would call a cab to get me to my home to drop my bag. This would save my feet for the old town and give me time to explore. 

It was a great plan. My apartment is in an ideal location and it's gorgeous. 

I walked through the old town like a tourist, camera in hand but was secretly searching for food and wine. I found that perfect spot... 

My entertainer, by the way, is currently playing Pink Floyd ~ 'wish you were here'... and I do wish you were all here with me. That's really the only way to improve on this moment. 

Time for sunset... 

I wish you all a Happy Easter! or as they say here, 

Boa Páscoa!

xx