The town of Obidos was asleep this morning when I left. The weather was mild and overcast threatening to rain but now I'm tanning my toes in full sun. Ive walked about 9kms and its not yet noon. I had my first coffee at Bitorino' s café at about km 6. It was a tiny spot with only 2 tiny tables and was operated by the friendliest 4 foot tall elderly woman in a gossip session with 3 other elderly women. Outside was a kind elderly gent who spoke with me in portuguese. He asked about my journey and commented on my perdnas forte and made a few funny gestures to imply that I was nuts haha. My coffee was muito bem... the best yet.
After a quick chat I carried on and as I arrived in Caldas da Rainha, I smelled a sweet, beautiful, familiar smell that until now I thought was jasmine. Now I don't think it is. Orange blossom perhaps?
I walked through the cobblestone streets, yes uphill and saw my very first scallop shell sign, indicating the Camino route.
I stopped for another coffee in the city and found the bus station. I now have 2 hours to explore before I ride to Nazaré.
I found a Sunday fruit market and bought 2 handfuls of
fresh strawberries and 3 clementines... for 45 cents!!! So I decided to splurge and bought a bag of fresh toasted almonds for 2€.
I'm now in a parkette, shoes off, enjoying the sun. My plan is to find a shoe string to use as a belt. My pants are falling off and not because of all the handsome men here haha. I don't know how much weight I've lost yet but my clothes don't fit the same.
I'm convinced that this Mediterranean diet is the best thing for us all.... it could also be the walking.
Not much to see here other than the church, the park and the fruit market. The fruit market being the big winner.
I'm in a bus station waiting and a lady walked by so naturally I smiles and she said wow, where are you from? I told her Canada and she said she was from the US. She knew I wasn't from here because I smiled hahaha. Fairly accurate observation. So far 3 people have asked me to help them figure out tickets, bathrooms and directions. Maybe I look like I frequent bus stations?
It's a 40 min ride to Nazaré and there I hope to see some of the biggest waves in the world. There is a massive canyon on the ocean floor that creates giant waves that attract surfers from all over the world.
5 hours later....
The waves were big but not one surfer. The Nazaré Beach is massive. There is a walkway along the entire beach and on the opposite side of the one way street, the road is lined with beach shops, restaurants, and ice cream.
Not just beautiful, it is rich with history. Up until today I felt more like a tourist but today, right now, I feel like a pilgrim.
When I arrived at my adorable beach apartment, I dropped my gear and hit the beach... I put my feet in the cold dry sand and let the sun warm my body. The wind is coming in strong off the sea and bringing in some powerful surf. At the north end of the beach there are some cliffs that you can climb by stairs or funicular.
Just because I never have before, I paid the 4€ and took the funicular to the top. Although it has been completely updated, it was invented and created in the 1800's.
On the cliffs is also the Sanctuary of Lady Nazaré. Another famous apparition happened here. It is there that my Caminho will begin. It is called the Nazaré Way.
From the Lady of Nazaré to the Lady of Fatima. Many pilgrims walk from all over Europe to Fatima and then continue to Nazaré. A similar tradition to those that walk to Santiago and then walk on to Muxia as I did in 2018.
After visiting the monuments I walked down to the lighthouse and Fort to take in the views of the waves and the rough shores of North Beach.
On my return walk, I saw a little bar and the sounds of Bob Marley lured me to a table. I ordered a Somersby Apple Cider that for some reason is very popular here... Lucky me since I can't drink beer. Bob was singing, "every little thing is gonna be alright"... and I believe him.
I chugged my cold beverage and started the long stairs down... not because I can but because the funicular was stuck.
I am now sitting on the beach wall freezing my butt off trying to capture a glorious sunset. I hope you like it.
Tomorrow is not only going to be a very long walk (half way to Fatima is 27kms) but also forecasted to rain all day. A true test of my will, strength and resilience. No taxis. No ubers. Just 2 feet and a whole lot of faith.
Boa Noite and beijos xx
No comments:
Post a Comment