Day 12 ~ Despite the strangeness of being completely alone, in a silo, at the top of a mountain, I slept very well. It was just that quiet. I woke up to rain so I took my time getting ready in hopes that it would pass... and it did.
I made an egg breakfast but was struggling to find an appetite so early. I usually start my day with 4 cups of coffee. Unfortunately my silo did not have a supply of sugar so no coffee for me.
I left later than I planned at 0830 and started off by heading downhill. It was a busy road without a shoulder so I headed back into the hills on a farm track and right back up the same hill.
I know... follow the signs but there weren't any leaving my hobbit house. I did eventually find signage and was able to focus on just putting one foot in front of the other.
I left later than I planned at 0830 and started off by heading downhill. It was a busy road without a shoulder so I headed back into the hills on a farm track and right back up the same hill.
I know... follow the signs but there weren't any leaving my hobbit house. I did eventually find signage and was able to focus on just putting one foot in front of the other.
After the night rain, the tracks were muddy and I was forced to skip puddles. Again I had choices on which way to go and again no signs anywhere so I guessed. I guessed wrong. I ended up heading deep into a valley. I knew it was wrong because the path became greener and the bush thicker until I had to duck and dodge thorn bushes and spider webs.
This time however I was not stubborn. I accepted the err of my ways and turned around and went back to the crossroads to choose an alternative path.
This one led straight up another mountain and into some rain clouds. I saw the storm coming from behind me all morning and knew it would catch me. I considered praying but then thought, no. Rain won't hurt me. It's just water. Water is life. So I said bring it on, let's just do this. And with that thought the sky just let loose on me. I had my poncho on and it wasn't cold .. just wet. The only inconvenience was that my glasses were foggy and I was visually impaired.
This would be the weather pattern all day. Rain and sun. Rain and sun. When I descended the mountain, I was greeted at the bottom and offered food and drinks by some lovely folks waiting in their cars for hikers at the end of the track. After a brief chat, I discovered this was the support group for the 80 Catholic students that I saw yesterday. I had not heard them all morning but now I knew they were coming. I hurried on and was desperate for a coffee....it was almost noon and I wasn't sure how I was still functioning. Google found me a café just 150m from my route. I paused for some necessary fuel. It was an old man and woman running the hidden little spot and I was their only customer. We shared some small talk but the old woman looked more eager just to see me leave...so I did. On my way out the door I could hear singing. I looked to my left, to the route I was supposed to be on and it was the catholic group camp. The girl in the front was carrying a cross and the ones that followed were singing happily.
I wasn't sure If I should hang back longer or try to pass them. I opted to pass but their young legs were going at a great pace. I ended up just walking in their group. One of the leaders and a couple of the kids started conversations with me in their very well spoken English and my poor Portuguese. They were all so lovely and kind and we shared a few laughs. I was invited to have lunch with them when they stopped but I graciously declined. They stopped at a church and when we were saying our goodbyes I asked for a photo of them. Instead they pulled out a microphone, introduced me to the entire gang and asked me to tell my story. I kept it very short...shocking, I know. I took the mic and started with, "I'd like to thank the Academy for this great honour" which to my surprise garnished laughter, then I followed up with a Will Smith joke and to my surprise they laughed again. My most attentive crowd ever haha. I explained my route and where I started. I thanked them for walking and talking with me and I told them how special this memory would be to me. I wished them all safety and blessings, Boa Viagem and Bom Caminho. Then everybody gathered around me for a group photo with my camera and theirs. They were laughing and singing and it was beautiful.
I was approached by the priest they had walking with them and he very happily gave me his blessings. Quite honestly the whole experience was surreal. It was unforgettable. It was a Camino moment.
I left them to go on my way but I smiled for the rest of my walk. I still had 8kms to go and my feet felt destroyed, shattered and pulverized from the terrain. The scenery today however was beautiful.
Mostly dirt tracks, trees and hills, with the sun and clouds playing games in the sky.
I found a walking stick a few days ago and hadn't named her until today. Yes her. She is my Wilson lol. And yes I talk to her. I decided to name her Jacinta. If you know your history about the significance of Fatima then perhaps you understand. Of the 3 children, the seers, Jacinta was the youngest.
She was positive, resilient and her faith was strong. Today she helped me climb up and over countless hills to visit the shrine and Sanctuary of Fatima.
I did go into the Basilica and saw the tombs of Jacinta and Francisco.
And as promised, I lit several candles and said prayers and gave thanks.
My feet were hurting so bad I could barely hobble away from the Sanctuary. Luckily my home for the night is so close I can see the Basilica from my window. I had the world's longest shower but still could barely move. I sucked it up and walked tenderly to a laundromat a few blocks away. To my delight, across the street, was a wine bar! Did they know I was coming?? While my clothes were washing, I was drinking.
And as promised, I lit several candles and said prayers and gave thanks.
My feet were hurting so bad I could barely hobble away from the Sanctuary. Luckily my home for the night is so close I can see the Basilica from my window. I had the world's longest shower but still could barely move. I sucked it up and walked tenderly to a laundromat a few blocks away. To my delight, across the street, was a wine bar! Did they know I was coming?? While my clothes were washing, I was drinking.
A fabulous way to celebrate the day. I hobbled home after and settled for a hotel dinner. My usual, vegetable soup, steak and egg, salad and wine.
As I write to you now from my cozy bed, my face is burning from sun and dehydration. My feet are throbbing and my eyes are closing but I feel immense gratitude for this opportunity, and am so happy to share it with you.
As I write to you now from my cozy bed, my face is burning from sun and dehydration. My feet are throbbing and my eyes are closing but I feel immense gratitude for this opportunity, and am so happy to share it with you.
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