Day 21 ~ We don't talk about Bruno

26kms to Viana do Castelo ~

Maria, my lovely hostess made it very difficult to leave early. She made a perfect little breakfast for one. She had spread out before me on a perfectly set table, fruit, juice, yogurt, ham, cheese and was brewing fresh coffee. We had a lovely chat with both of us making an effort to speak in each other's language. She was such a sweet hostess and made me feel like I was staying with family. I was eager to leave but only to avoid getting caught in the imminent afternoon rain.

The trail was right outside the door and headed away from the shore and started with a short, cobblestone climb. I was only a few kms in and another pilgrim caught up to me. The pilgrim was a gentleman I had seen the day before but had never said much more than hello. Today we graduated to beyond hello and enjoyed a friendly conversation and shared our walk. My new American friend Bruno and I shared an engaging conversation that helped pass the morning and put 10kms behind us without thinking of my feet once.  We shared some jet fuel and kept on at a good pace. Our walk was mostly through small towns with cobblestone and  a wee bit of forest. 

I needed some time in the woods after so many kms of boardwalks.  Hiding in the trees was a river that we eventually crossed by a cement bridge. 

It was very green with dense, jungle like foliage. 

It was a nice change of scenery from the coastal views. Although the sun stayed behind the clouds, it was warming up and the rain held off.

After only hearing rumours of fellow Canadians on this Camino, they eventually caught up to us. I had the pleasure of meeting Gelato John and Tall Tim.

There was some friendly banter where we all bullied our American friend in good fun. We laughed and chatted and it wasn't long before we were a mere 7kms from town. 

We arrived at a church and took a much needed rest. Bruno, my Americano friend, forged on, while the Canadians took an extended break. Before parting ways we made a plan to meet for drinks at the main Plaza at precisely 522 pm.

I walked with my new Canadian friends in mostly silence through villages and on quiet country lanes. Each of us in our own thoughts.

We came to another coffee shop so I decided to part ways and invest in more jet fuel. As I veered right and they veered left. Who do you think was standing outside the café? Yes, my Americano friend,  Bruno... but you know, we don't talk about Bruno.

He was leaving as I arrived so I imagine the guys walked together. I ordered my coffee and had it brought to an outside table. The inside had several locals so being a stinky pilgrim, I opted for the patio. After downing my coffee, I thought I would be helpful and bring my cup and saucer inside. Unfortunately being a super clutz, I stumbled and the cup flew off the saucer and crashed on the tile floor startling all of the inside guests. They all made the typical reactive sounds to an exploding dish and were very close to giving me a standing ovation. I was mortified. I did what any decent Canadian would do and apologized about 500 times. I offered to clean it up but they insisted it was fine. I left my money on the counter, hung my head in shame and got back on the trail.

After countless cobblestone streets I reached that point where my feet were screaming. I came to a crossroads. Camino went right and up and continued through cobblestone streets. The main road went left and according to Google both routes met up at the same point. Without much thought or concern I opted for smooth pavement. I had another opportunity to rejoin the Camino path but being stubborn, I kept with the smooth road. Google tried to lead me up a steep, cobblestone hill that slowly became a dirt path that disappeared into a dark forest.

Now we have ourselves an adventure. I chose to cut through a nice residential neighbourhood, backtracking away from the dark, creepy forest to the smooth paved road. My scenery became nothing but smooth, black asphalt, trees and dark clouds. 

I was on the last 3kms that never seem to end. The shoulder on this road was 5 times the width of any city sidewalk so safety was not a concern...and I did see 3 other pedestrians. A slight detour I like to call "taking the scenic route" just as my father used to say if he got lost or was delayed. Fortunately, this detour brought me to a horse farm and it was a nice spot to pause.

 The road did bring me to same bridge the other pilgrims crossed so I was back on track. The bridge was long, over water, with train tracks under the cars and the pedestrian walkway narrow. 

This was slightly unnerving when the train rumbled under my feet and a couple pedestrians approaching had to pass me and my wide load.

The centre of town was maybe 500m from the base of the bridge. I reached my accomodation quickly and just as I did, the rain finally started to fall. My studio apartment is fantastic. Spotless, stylish and very compact. I love everything about it. I had just walked in, dropped my bag and opened my window to see my view and there was a familiar face. My view from one story up was of the main square.

 I called out to Bruno and we made a plan to meet in an hour for some much needed medicinal beverages.

The place we originally agreed to meet the Canucks was closed so we went to a really nice place directly across from my apartment. It was a boutique like café and bar, serving crepes and treats and most importantly, wine.

I was trying to be efficient by discreetly bringing my laundry. I didn't have much but I wanted to freshen up my sweater because I'm sure I'll be wearing it for the next few rainy days.

We sent a message to John and Tim that we were relocating but they were already in Sangria town.

I managed to get my laundry done, enjoy conversation and dinner with Bruno. We had vegetable soup to start and we agreed it was perfect for a cold, rainy night. We then shared a local dish called feijoada. The flavour was good, typical portuguese, chorizo, beef, and pork, carrots with white beans over a bed of rice. Not sure if it had tripe as well.... but that stayed at the side of my plate.

After dinner, and attempting to find the guys, Bruno called it a night. I hung out at the laundromat with a sweet girl from Brazil who lived in town. We had a surprisingly deep chat about religion and countless other things while we waited for our clothes to dry. 

I ran through the rain back to my apartment and snuggled into every blanket I could find.

I've never fallen asleep quite so easily.

It's now 630am and it's still raining.... not sure if that translates to taking the day off or walking in the miserable conditions... I'll let you know.

Bom Dia! 

xx