Today was no less than spectacular. I woke up to a cloudy, cold morning but forced myself out of bed to get a jump on the day. The day before had exhausted me completely but I wasn't quite done in Fatima.
I couldn't leave without going to Lucia's house. I left my backpack in my room in hopes of an easier walk besides I would have to backtrack anyway.
All measurement of distance in Europe I think is a lie. I thought it was just Spain but no, it's Portugal too. Lucia's house is supposed to be 2kms from the Sanctuary but I clocked 3.5 kms to get there. I saw Jacinta and Francisco's house first and then went to Lucia's house.
I walked through both houses, preserved well and as I imagined them. Simple and small. I walked along a cobblestone path that noted the place of the apparitions.
It was early and I walked alone in peace. The birds are always singing here... rain or shine. I guess I really wasn't alone.
Returned back to the Sanctuary, collected my belongings and headed for Tomar.
I arranged a ride to just outside the city limits of Fatima since I had already walked 7kms in town.
My walk to Tomar was mostly through forests and rolling hills.
A few homes with aggressive dogs, timid goats and very vocal roosters. The path, although not an official Camino route, was mostly well marked with yellow arrows for Santiago and blue arrows for Fatima. Still, there was some guessing but today, luck was on my side. The sun was shining, the sky was a brilliant blue and the landscape was so much greener than I imagined it would be.
It's spring so wildflowers are everywhere giving each home and each field a splash of colour.
I knew I had to be arriving in Tomar soon because my feet were aching from the grind of the gravel and cobblestone under my soles.
The pain was quickly forgotten as soon as I saw the Aqueduct in the distance.
During my research, I read that you could walk on it. So guess what I did? Yep... I walked on it... all of it.
I am not normally afraid of heights but oh my goodness, it was windy and looking down made me dizzy. So I kept my eyes up, stayed focused and kept moving forward.
Near the end it became more narrow and as exciting and scenic as it was, I was glad it came to an end.
I was grateful for perfect weather as that would have played out differently in the rain. After climbing down a set of stone stairs, I was back on the road and still about 3kms to go. For a small stretch of road I felt like I was transported to Tuscany with the giant trees lining the road.
It was absolutely gorgeous. I walking but stopped at a bus stop bench to rest after only 2 kms. I don't know if it's my boots, my age or my excessive distances but all the bones in both my feet feel shattered. Usually when I'm done for the day my feet feel better quickly but then my muscle seize as soon as I stop moving. Call me crazy but as soon as I arrived at my 3rd floor apartment (yes... more climbing) I dropped my heavy pack and left to climb another billion stairs up to the top of the hill in Tomar to explore the Convento de Cristo.
It would be closing soon and there was much to see. I was starting to get a headache, probably from not eating much and possibly also dehydration.
It was a short walk but a good climb and for 6€ it was a good hour of exploring.
The Cathedral in the main square was closed and getting a face-lift so the Convento was getting all my time and attention.
I found a grocery store on my way back to my apartment and decided to get some supplies and make use of the kitchen. For 20€, I bought a bottle of wine and enough food to make dinner, breakfast and a packed lunch.
I opened my balcony door and let in the fresh air while the sun was setting. I put on some great music, poured a giant glass of wine, ok maybe 2, and I cooked up a fabulous meal.
I have a huge day ahead tomorrow, 27kms and not sure what to expect. I still have yet to see another pilgrim.
Despite having an incredibly awesome day and all my medicinal efforts, my headache has evolved into a migraine. I best get some rest for the long walk ahead. Tomorrow I am on the actual route of the Camino with hopefully no lack of signage. For the record, getting lost and not knowing which path to take are two different things. Sometimes guessing where a road will take me is part of the fun. Its part of the adventure. I like to explore... it makes me feel alive.
Boa Noite, Beijos and Bom Caminho xx
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